UNCORKED WINE TRAVELS

Musings Along The Wine Trails

Il Dolce Far Niente ~ San Casciano dei Bagni

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8c47JPGItalians have a saying, “il dolce far niente…” which literally translates to “the sweetness of doing nothing”.  For me, nothing is sweeter than aimlessly touring the Tuscan countryside south of Siena, between Val d’Orcia and Val di Chiana.

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Lots of open space, wooded valleys, olive groves, vineyards and a handful of small towns dotted with working farms make up the landscape.  I’ve visited this area before, and will return again, as it is a fabulous home base for exploring the southern Tuscany and northern Umbrian sites.

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Charming medieval San Casciano dei Bagni is a delightful borgo (medieval village) steeped in history dating back as early as the third century.  One day the town’s church bells rang ominously for over 15 minutes straight ~ in honor perhaps of a beloved’s passing  ~ the intense vibration of the bells resounded throughout the town and shook the earth! A very spiritual and moving experience and there wasn’t a soul around… For Whom The Bells Toll? [Read more…]

Tuscany’s Vignamaggio Vineyards – Home of Mona Lisa

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Vignamaggio
Glorious Vignamaggio ~ Courtesy of Vignamaggio Vineyards

Vignamaggio Vineyards is steeped with fascinating history!  For starters, Monna Lisa was born in Vignamaggio, (a tiny town in northern Chianti) in the 14th century.  Leonardo da Vinci (Leonardo from Vinci) lived a few miles away.  When Leonardo painted the aristocratic daughter of Gheradini, the magnificent setting of the Vignamaggio was painted in the background.

Mona Lisa
Leonardo Da Vinci’s Mona Lisa

I visited Vignamaggio Vineyards on my last day in Tuscany ~ the spring weather was anything but cooperative, rainy and blustery.

Bella Vignamaggio!
Bella Vignamaggio!

Vignamaggio (translates to May Vines), is nestled in the hills between Greve and Lamole, about 45 minutes from Firenze.  Idyllic winding roads up to the estate are flanked by olive trees and hardwoods.  The smell of burning wood was in the air.

Entry to Vignamaggio
Stately entry to Vignamaggio Vineyard and Wine Resort near Greve in Chiant

After trekking up the long driveway lined with hardwood trees to the top of the hill, I was warmly greeted by the charming Sandro Checcucci, my personal wine guide and host at Vignamaggio Vineyards.  The tasting room was warm and inviting. [Read more…]

Villa Cafaggio’s Super Tuscans Rock Panzano

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Buonvenuti a Panzano!
Benvenuti a Panzano!

My draw to the tiny hamlet of Panzano was two-fold…. one was to meet Dario Cecchini, the touted celebrity butcher featured on Anthony Bourdain’s No Reservations show, and revered by travel guru Rick Steves.  And, also to explore the many boutique wineries hidden off  the SR222, the Chianti Wine Trail.   As a point of reference, Panzano lies a few kilometers south of Greve, about 45 minutes from Firenze (Florence).

Picturesque and quiet....Panzano in Chianti
Picturesque and quiet….Panzano in Chianti

I visited over Pasqua (Easter) weekend and the weather was cool and misty, with scattered showers.  Not ideal, but with umbrella in hand, I made the best of it.  I enjoyed sitting in the village bakery with a cappuccino in hand, watching the local women scurry around town preparing for the big Pasqua family dinner.  Shop windows were lavishly decorated with giant chocolate eggs with hidden toys inside, all festively wrapped with pastel ribbons. [Read more…]

Panzano’s Celebrity Butcher Dario Cecchini Struts His Stuff

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Celebrity status Butcher Dario Cecchini in Panzano
Celebrity status Butcher Dario Cecchini in his Panzano shop, Antica Macelleria Cecchini

Panzano in Chianti is probably best known for its acclaimed and boisterous butcher, Dario Cecchini.  Travel writer Rick Steeves,  television foodie Anthony Bourdain and countless U-Tube videos have made Dario Cecchini and his Antica Macelleria Cecchini into somewhat of a legend in the sleepy hamlet of Panzano.

I had to see it for myself…

Look for Dario's trademark bull and the psychodelic cow in centro Panzano
Look for Dario’s trademark cow on the side of  Ristorante Solociccia or the famous psychodelic cow in centro Panzano

You’ll know you’re in the right place when you see locals and tourists alike jamming the doorway of the tiny machelleria (butcher shop) and hear the pounding bass of AC/DC rocking through the streets!    It’s quite a party — all the time! [Read more…]

Castello di Volpaia’s Romantic Lure Is Intoxicating

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Volpaia rises high into the clouds at 2500 feet near Radda in Chianti, Tuscany.
Volpaia rises high into the clouds at over 2000 feet above sea level near Radda in Chianti, Tuscany.

Right in the heart of Chianti, five steep miles atop the highest peak, lies Volpaia, touted as one of the most romantic villages in the heart of Tuscany.  Dating back to the 11th century, this medieval borgo (village) is one of the best preserved walled villages in Italy.

Medieval curved walls add charm to the little hilltop village.
Medieval curved walls add a charm to the little hilltop village.

As was customary in the middle ages, people were named for their trade or place of origin.  In the mid-1400’s, Lorenzo della Volpaia, a mathematician, architect and skilled clockmaker, adopted the town’s name, literally meaning Lorenzo from Volpaia (Lair of the Foxes).   Della Volpaia was even said to have consulted with Leonardo da Vinci (Leonardo from Vinci) on technical projects. One of Volpaia’s most exclaimed clock works is the clock in Palazzo Vecchio in centro Florence.

Escape to Volpaia for a stay at a medieval bed and breakfast stay.
Escape to Volpaia for a medieval bed and breakfast stay.

Today, Volpaia is owned by the Stianti Mascheroni family (Father Rafaello Stianti gifted the village and winery to his daughter Gionvanella as a wedding present in 1996).   Castello di Volpaia is renowned for its wonderful wines, traditional olive oils and aromatic vinegar. [Read more…]