UNCORKED WINE TRAVELS

Musings Along The Wine Trails

Best Backroads For Cycling In RRV-Healdsburg Wine Country

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Whether you’re an avid cyclist or a leisurely day tripper, there’s no finer place to bike ride than the backroads of Russian River Valley and Dry Creek Valley wine country.  Undulating roads twist and bend between the towering redwoods and gracefully wind beside endless acres of premium vineyards between Windsor and Healdsburg.

One of the top local cycling treks is Healdsburg’s Westside Road to Dry Creek Road.  It’s an easy scenic ride along the Russian River, paralleling some of the finest Pinot Noir and Chardonnay vineyards.  Coming from Windsor, Mark West Station Road is a bit more remote with less traffic, as is Eastside Road.  All roads eventually lead to Healdsburg.

There’s no shortage of postcard scenery.  Traffic is light most times during the weekdays and the pavement is fairly even and well-maintained, however, cyclists need to heed attention as the roads are crowned and the shoulder is non-existent in places.

Stop, swirl and sip at the eclectic Porter Creek Vineyard where the vines meet the Redwoods and the chickens roam freely or continue further down the road for a bonafide rest stop at the trendy MacRostie Vineyard for a seated tasting of Chardonnay and Pinot Noir.  St. Helena and the Mayacama Mountains serve as a picture perfect backdrop as you pedal north toward Dry Creek Valley.

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Experience Cave-Aged Wines At DRNK Winery in Russian River Valley

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Atop the famed Laguna Ridge down an unmarked dirt lane off Frei Road near Sebastopol, amidst the vines, is the home of DRNK Winery.  DRNK is a family collaboration between Ryan and Katie Kunde and her parents, Dale and Nancy Dougherty.  Cleverly named, DRNK is a compilation of each family member’s first initial and so much more. 

Historically, the Sonoma Valley Kunde family has been making wine since the 1880’s.  As a young boy, Ryan scouted vineyard sights with his grandfather and learned his way around the cellar and bottling line with his father.  Often mentoring with notable winemakers, Ryan’s fascination of blending wine eventually led to advanced studies in Enology and Viticulture at UC Davis.  Fast forward to 2012, when Ryan, a fifth generation winemaker, ventured out on his own in search of new and unique vineyard sites using drone technology.

One of only four wine caves in the Russian River Valley, this spectacular 300′ long subterranean cave’s natural temperature is a constant 58 degrees year round with 85% average humidity.  Absolutely perfect for aging wine.  Designed to hold 500 barrels, there’s also several alcoves for private tastings and events. 

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Best Kept Secret in Sta. Rita Hills ~ Spear Vineyards & Winery

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Quite by happenstance, the highlight of my recent wine trek to Sta. Rita Hills AVA was discovering Spear Vineyards & Winery off Highway 246 in Lompoc.  While tasting at a neighboring winery, it was suggested that I make an appointment at Spear for “a true vineyard tasting experience.”

Much to my delight, I was welcomed to the newly opened tasting room for a private seated tasting. Unobstructed views of the vibrant Chardonnay vineyard surround the eclectic tasting room, formerly a 1920’s dairy barn and creamery, complete with towering silo.  Needless to say, the views were nothing less than spectacular.

Even more of a surprise, was meeting the young and upcoming Winemaker, Kat Gaffney.  Instantly, Kat’s laid-back, unpretentious manner put me at ease and led to many questions about her burgeoning wine path.

Kat started as a harvest intern in 2011 in San Luis Obispo, later working as a “flying winemaker.” Chasing harvests from the northern hemisphere to the southern hemisphere led her to cellar ventures in New Zealand, Oregon and Santa Barbara County.

Ego aside, Kat’s elegant Old World-style winemaking philosophy is simply to allow the pure expression of the fruit to present itself, with minimal intervention.  The small lot wines are artfully handcrafted using small cluster fermentation.  Grapes are carefully processed via gravity flow rather than traditional mechanical pumps, which can damage and bruise the fruit.  Wines are then aged in neutral French oak barrels to retain the varietal characteristics.

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Discover the Hidden Wine Caves in Sonoma Wine Country

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Looking for something different on your next wine trip to Sonoma County?  Start at the far end of Sonoma Valley at Buena Vista Winery, California’s first commercial winery established in 1857 by Count Agoston Haraszthy.

Steeped in history, legend has it that migrant Chinese workers were trapped alive while digging the caves for the Count.  Hence, ghost sightings have been reported in the tasting room and in the cave after hours.

Tucked away in the Chalk Hill AVA, east of Windsor, Roth Estates Winery features a more modern cave setting.  Specializing in Bordeaux varietals, Roth offers a unique property tour ending with a reserve tasting in the cave itself.

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Vin Santo Reigns In Chianti’s Medieval Hamlet of Castello di Volpaia

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On a recent trip to Tuscany, I had the good fortune to revisit the medieval hamlet of Castello di Volpaia, rising five miles atop the Tuscan hills near Radda in Chianti  The fortified borgo (village) dates back to the 11th century and is most well-known for it famous resident clockmaker and namesake, Lorenzo della Volpaia, and of course, its Vin Santo.

Vin Santo translates to “Holy Wine”, and is a type of Italian dessert wine.  One theory on the origin of  the “Holy Wine” is referenced in the historic use in the Catholic mass, where sweet wine was preferred.  Another claim dates back to the Renaissance era when wine merchants peddled the sweet nectar on the streets of Rome.

Interestingly, Vin Santo can be made sweet or bone dry, depending on how the wine is finished. Typically, Malvasia or Trebbiano grapes are used to craft a white Vin Santo and in Chianti, the flagship Sangiovese grape is used to make the red or rose Vin Santo.

Grapes destined for the dessert wine production are harvested in September or October and are hung to dry in the warm rafters or laid on straw mats in attics for several months, allowing the moisture to evaporate and the sugars to concentrate.  Sometimes these wines are also called “straw wines”.

The longer the wines are dried, the higher the residual sugar content, and the sweeter the wine. It is not uncommon to let the grapes dry naturally and hang in the rafters until March before crushing and fermenting the grapes.

Vin Santo is aged and stored in small oak barrels, for a minimum of 3 years and often aged up to 10 years.  The color of Vin Santo can range from pale to dark amber, even neon orange.

Vin Santo’s flavor profile has nutty or raisin notes with honey and cream attributes.  In Italy, Vin Santo is traditionally served with biscotti for dunking.

 

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