UNCORKED WINE TRAVELS

Musings Along The Wine Trails

La Ciarliana Revisited ~ A Sparkling Gem In Montepulciano

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The glorious San Biago stands at the base of Montepulciano

In the rolling hills of the Tuscan countryside, outside the gated enclave of Montepulciano, a few miles down La Strada di Vino Nobile, you will find La Ciarliana winery.  This little crown jewel is a small, family run winery, gently situated on 22 acres, that produces very notable Vino Nobile wines.

La Chiesa di San Michele, Ciarliana, a 9th century ruin across the fields from La Carliana   The winery’s logo pays tribute to La Chiesa di San Michele’s famous bell tower, which lay in ruin in the distance.  The founder of La Ciarliana was Santo Pellegrino Frangiosa, who was born and raised on the podere (farm), just a stone’s throw from centro Montepulciano.   Santo Pellegrino was one of the first wine pioneers in the valley to plant the famed Prugnolo Gentile, otherwise known as Sangiovese, in the early 1960’s.  

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Bella Tuscany ~ Captive On The Carousel Of Time

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Il Poggio ~ Agriturismo in Celle Sul Rigo -population 300
Il Poggio ~ Agriturismo in Celle Sul Rigo Medieval town population of only  300

Many of my friends found it hard to believe that I was travelling all the way from California to Italy by myself.  Travelling solo (sola in italiano), was never really an issue. I was returning to Il Poggio in Celle Sul Rigo, approximately 50 km south of Siena, for my second visit, so there was a sense of familiarity.  Luckily, I made friends easily,  meeting fellow travelers along the way.  www.ilpoggio.net

Bienvenuti ~ Il Poggio, Celle Sul Rigo
Bienvenuti ~ Il Poggio, Celle Sul Rigo

Many of the other guests at Il Poggio were either couples or families but everyone seemed to be exceptionally friendly, no matter what language they spoke.  The staff at Il Poggio was very genuine and welcoming, but spoke little to no English.  By default, I was forced to speak Italian and really enjoyed the challenge–my mind was always engaged!

San Casciano dei Bagni, population 1700

One of my first italian amiche, (friends) was Ramune, who spoke English commensurate  to my Italian.  She  freelanced as a concierge and tour guide of sorts at Il Poggio.   Originally from Lithuania, Ramune was fascinating and enthusiastic, eager to share her time, offering guided side trips throughout southern Tuscany.   [Read more…]

Vino Nobile ~ Wines of Distinction

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Contucci Palace - right side of piazza; Entrance to Il Consorzio del Vino Nobile di Montepulciano - left of well
Contucci Palace – right side of piazza;
Entrance to Il Consorzio del Vino Nobile di Montepulciano – left of well

So what’s in a name? The name, Vino Nobile, refers to a “noble” wine of great quality and dates back to the mid-18th century.  Vino Nobile was considered the prize wine of many aristocratic families in the Montepulciano area, so hence its name.  In 1828, Giuseppe Contucci, one of the fore fathers of the promotion of Vino Nobile, sparked international interest in the Italian and foreign wine markets.

Infamous Piazza Grande
Infamous Piazza Grande

The Contucci Palace is located in the Piazza Grande and is a stellar example of Renaissance period architecture.  The Contucci Palace wine cellars are the only wine cellars in the historic centro of Montepulciano that houses a full working wine production facility.  Visitors can tour the cellars and then visit the fantastic wine shop, Contucci Cantina, located on the first floor of  the magnificent  Contucci Palace. The wine tasting list is extensive, and the wines are superb!  One of my favorite wines is the  2008 Mulinvecchio Vino Nobile di Montepulciano. [Read more…]

Tenuta Valdipiatta – Montepulciano DOCG

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Grapevines as far as you can see...
Sangiovese grapevines as far as you can see…

While there are many excellent tasting rooms and wine cellars in the historic town of Montepulciano itself, I wanted to experience an “authentic wine cellar tour” in the heartland of the famed Vino Nobile wine growing region.

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As there are over 72 bottlers in the Montepulciano wine consortium,  who better to ask for a winery recommendation than the hostess at The Consorzio del Vino Montepulciano?  As hoped, the hostess was more than happy to arrange a same day, private cellar tour and wine tasting at a boutique winery called Tenuta Valdipiatta, just outside the medieval walled town.

 

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Roughly translated, Tenuta Valdipiatta means Estate in the Flat Valley….in other words, miles of wide-open rows of gorgeous Sangiovese grapes!   Several winding roads later, our GPS led us down a long dusty dirt road toward Tenuta Valdipiatta in the wine-growing area known as Gracciano. [Read more…]