UNCORKED WINE TRAVELS

Musings Along The Wine Trails

2021’s Top 10 Winery Picks off Russian River Valley’s Iconic Westside Road

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Thought I’d share my favorite Top 10, most fun, top notch wineries along Russian River’s highly touted Westside Road.  If you’re new to Russian River Valley and love artisanal Pinot Noir, Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc, Zinfandel or Cabernet Sauvignon, I highly recommend planning a few days wine tasting on Westside Road.  Starting from the far west end of Westside Road, moving toward Healdsburg, here are my top 10 picks for 2021 ~ Cheers!

1.  Moshin Vineyards – One of my all-time favorite wineries at the far west end of Westside Road!  Look for the giant metal hummingbird hovering over the treetops to guide the way to the tasting room.  Moshin is always fun and funky, with unique local art displayed in the tasting room.  There’s a wide range of of small production wines available for tasting, including sparkling wine and a great line up of Pinot Noir.  Friendly wine hosts engage with the guests and are eager to share their stories.

 2.  Porter Creek Vineyards – No trip is complete without a visit to Porter Creek.  The dollhouse-like tasting room holds about six people comfortably but long-time wine host Jonathan will always make room for more.  The Pinot Noir and Chardonnay wines are meticulously crafted by winemaker Alex Davis, who studied viticulture at the Université de Bourgogne before taking the reins at the family winery.  Other varietals produced include Viognier, Syrah, Zinfandel and Carignane.

3.  Thomas George Estates – Plan ahead and reserve a cave wine tasting or take a wine safari aboard a vintage Pinzgauer to the top of Baker Ridge vineyard to revel at the panoramic view.  Enjoy an estate four course picnic lunch, complete with a select bottle of estate Pinot Noir.  Thomas George was originally a hop kiln in the 1920s, later owned by the late wine pioneer Davis Bynum who planted some of the first Pinot Noir, Chardonnay and Grenache Noir in Russian River Valley.  Truly a spectacular property with gorgeous lush gardens and towering trees, and of course, a wine cave.

4.  Landmark Vineyards at Hop Kiln Estate – Heading toward Healdsburg at a hairpin turn, you’ll find the historic Walters Hop Kiln.   Built in 1905 by a crew of Italian stonemasons, it represents the finest existing example of its type, consisting of three stone kilns for drying hops, a wooden cooler, and a two-story press for bailing hops.  In the late 1890’s, the property was a stagecoach stop.  Here you’ll find mostly Pinot Noir and Chardonnay, Grenache and Pinot Gris.  Now corporate-owned by Landmark, the ambience is still rustic and worthy of a quick stop to grab a glass and marvel at the restored hop kilns.

5.  MacRostie Winery & Vineyards – Hands down, some of the best views along Westside Road, looking out to Mount Saint Helena and the Mayacamas.  One of the newer wineries, MacRostie, is always packed to capacity, so reserve days ahead.  The tastings are seated and not rushed, with great individual interaction with entertaining and knowledgeable wine hosts.  Guests are greeted with a cold glass of Rosé or Sauvignon Blanc, depending on the season, and escorted to a view table. Side by side tastings are common with the many single vineyard Pinot Noir and Chardonnay wines.  Can’t say enough about MacRostie ~ it’s top of the list for me! [Read more…]

Kickstart The Weekend In DRNK’s Wine Cave

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No better way to kick off your Russian River Valley Wine tasting trek than at DRNK off Frei Road in Sebastopol.  Ryan Kunde is one of my favorite, and most talented, winemakers in Sonoma County and is known to showcase the most diverse wine tasting flights.  Ryan is in a league of his own as a fifth generation winegrower from the notable Sonoma 1880s pioneer wine family of Kunde.

DRNK is a moniker for the first initials of inlaws Dale and Nancy Dougherty and wife Katy.  Founded in 2012, DRNK is one of only four wine caves in the RRV AVA and features one of the most diverse and fun wine tasting experiences.  An avid drone pilot, Ryan uses the technology to scout new vineyards and to source fruit from premium vineyard sites throughout Sonoma County.

DRNK‘s vibrant 2020 Sauvignon Blanc and the five Bordeaux varietals found in the 2018 Red Blend are grown on the Kunde Estate’s Wildwood Vineyards in Sonoma Valley.  Looking for something different?  Try the 2020 Pinot Gris ‘Orange Wine’ from Bennet Valley.  A perfect Summer wine, as is the very limited 2020 Rose of Pinot Noir from the Russian Valley. For the traditionalists, the stellar lineup of Pinot Noir from Sonoma Coast’s 2017 Pinot Hill Vineyards or 2018 Russian River Green Valley vineyards is always guaranteed to please. [Read more…]

Cannabis in Wine Country? NIMBY.

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Courtesy of ehn.org

Oddly, the hot topic of discussion in wine country nowadays seems to be all about cannabis.  While legal for recreational and medicinal use for the most part in California, like it or not, cannabis farming has become a $4.4 billion booming business and is still growing.  No pun intended.

While somewhat reluctant to broach the subject while wine tasting in Sonoma County a few days ago, the banter was always lively and engaging, no matter who you asked.  In a short time, I learned that the majority of cannabis was grown in Humboldt County, processed in Mendocino County and distributed widely in Sonoma County, and that Napa County was not at all amused.

Courtesy of The Press Democrat

While Driving along Highway 116, I caught several wafts of fresh cannabis on alternating days, which caught me slightly off-guard.  A fun fact – Santa Rosa Jr. College offers an agricultural hemp program to teach students about the hemp industry, focusing on plant science, soil and plant nutrition and cultivation as well as marketing hemp products to consumers.

Another fun fact – apparently, there is a specialty market called Solful in Sebastopol where “soccer moms” reportedly line up for cannabis infused products.  I’m not sure why this surprised me, but it did.  All this may be the makings of a good Netflix series.

Last photo of my favorite old barn in Russian River Valley

Like anything controversial,  there are several train of thoughts about whether cannabis should be melded with California’s $42 billion retail wine empire.  A random sampling of tasting room hosts, winemakers and cannabis and wine enthusiasts along my travels, all felt very strongly about their reasons for keeping the two industries separate.   Speaking on behalf of the wine purists and those not interested in having cannabis farms near their homes, schools or place of business, this collective group was opposed to the pungent aromas permeating the air, even detectable with indoor growing operations. [Read more…]

Ojai’s Spiritual Vortex (And Great Wine) Soothes The Soul

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Photo credit Melissa Curtin/Money Inc.

Believe what you may, but Ojai’s spiritual vortex is very real, super calming and guaranteed to soothe the soul.  A 14-mile trek up Highway 33 from Ventura connects nature and casts good vibes to all those who visit and live there.  The actual town of Ojai is nestled along a winding country road lined with old oaks and majestic redwoods in the Topatopa Mountains.  A known burial ground for the Chumash Indians,  the translation for Ojai is ‘moon’, which probably explains the immense spiritual energy present connecting nature and visitors alike.  Artsy shop owners in downtown’s Arcade warmly welcome visitors after a long year’s closure, and eclectic spiritual boutiques on the back streets wistfully display their colorful clothing and spiritual wares.

As a curious enophile though, Topa Mountain Winery was a natural point of interest.  Excited to experience Topa Mountain Winery’s wine tasting featuring Santa Barbara and San Luis Obispo AVA wines, we settled in for a relaxing afternoon of sunshine and stellar wines.

The mixed flight kicked off with a 2019 Rosé of Grenache from Santa Barbara Highlands and the warmer Happy Canyon AVA.  Followed by a zesty oaked 2017 Viognier from Santa Barbara County’s White Hawk and Camp Four vineyards.

Topping the score sheet was the 2017 Blend 150, scoring 93 points from Wine Enthusiast, a Rhone blend of Grenache and Syrah from Demetria Vineyards in Santa Ynez.  Expertly paired, I might add, with the fig and olive tapenade and organic crackers.  And not to be overshadowed by the opulent 2016 Syrah Bien Nacido from Santa Maria AVA.

All of the wines along with the gracious service proved to be a memorable experience at Topa Mountain Winery.  Also noteworthy is, that the winery is dog-friendly and encourages a BYOPL (Bring Your Own Picnic Lunch) vibe.  An excellent way to while away the hours in sunny peaceful Ojai.

 

Book Review: The Billionaire’s Vinegar

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Part detective caper, part wine history, The Billionaire’s Vinegar by Benjamin Wallace is an intricate exposé about the “fake wine” importer Hardy Rodenstock and his quest to sell the world’s most expensive bottle of wine, or in this case, bottles of wine. A bottle of the infamous 1787 Château Lafite Bordeaux wine, with the etched initials Th. J., was purportedly owned by founding father and third President, Thomas Jefferson. That particular bottle of wine sold at a London Christie’s auction for $156,000 in 1985 to the Forbes family, the highest price paid for a single bottle of wine to date.

Author Wallace regales readers with multiple accounts of lavish three-day marathon wine tastings hosted by the imposing Rodenstock, and other equally heady social wine gatherings held in the pretentious high society wine circles in the 1980’s both in the States and abroad.

Anecdotes from Jefferson’s days serving as Foreign Minister to France circa 1785-1789, detail his great love of wine and  interest in viticulture.  His journal indicates the shipping of thousands of vitis vinifera root stock to the United States, hoping to successfully plant and cultivate a vineyard with french varietals at his home in Monticello.

While Jefferson was well-documented as a wine aficionado and collector, the provenance of the 1787 Château Lafite puzzled scientists and collectors alike.  Carbon dating tests were performed on the sediment in the bottles and the corks, glass and labels were scrutinized for authenticity.

Other wealthy collectors, such as Bill Koch, would join the elite ranks and purchase Bordeaux wine from Jefferson’s supposed “extended collection” only to later sue Rodenstock and the auction houses that sold the “fake wine” to him.

It would be many years for the truth to be finally revealed.  Wallace engages readers in this well-researched page-turner novel.  The Billionaire’s Vinegar  has enough historical value even if the reader has little interest in wine.