When Spring arrives, the lifecycle of the grape begins anew. Bud break signals the start of the grape growing season. Depending on the weather, bud break generally occurs in mid-March or early April in the Northern Hemisphere. The vines awaken from dormancy and start pumping energy into the woody part of the vine to produce buds. Barring any hailstorms or damaging spring frost, nature prepares for photosynthesis and warmer weather.
As bud break turns into vegetative growth, the next process of the grape vine begins from April to May. Flowering is when bunches of tiny flowers bloom from the new vine shoots. Grape vines are self-pollinating, so each of these flowers has the potential to turn into a single berry.
The next growth stage, fruit set, is critical as it determines the potential crop yield for the harvest. As the summer months near, the pollinated flower drops its petals and tiny green grape berry clusters with seeds develop at the end of the stem. Not every flower is fertilized into a berry, so it simply falls off the vine.
Veraison occurs in mid-summer, when the green berry clusters begin to expose their color pigmentation. Veraison stems from a French viticulture term meaning “the onset of grape ripening”. This is the process in which the berry clusters begin ripening and turning purple or blueish in color, depending upon the grape varietal. White grape varietals turn golden yellow in the same fashion. The heat of summer induces sugar development and ripening in each grape, while the cool evenings preserve natural acidity and freshness.
Harvest is the much anticipated culmination of the grape growth cycle. Global warming has dramatically altered the traditional September to November harvest time. It is common practice to harvest in the middle of the night in warmer areas when the grapes are cool and the sugars are resting. It’s a little sad to see the vines stripped of their fruit after harvest, but it’s all part of nature’s way. Soon, the vines will be dormant and the grape lifecycle will repeat itself. Here’s to a great growing season with no drama!
Ryan hails from five generations of vineyard management in Sonoma County and definitely knows how to select the top vineyards and grape varietals, utilizing drone technology. One thing is certain, Ryan’s charismatic nature is endearing and his depth of enology is as impressive as the array of wines.
An apple orchard in days gone by, the 110-acre Hallberg Ranch is truly a sight to behold. Estate Pinot Noir grapes are also sourced from Annapolis’ Sonoma Coast (Welsly Vineyard) and Sebastopol Hills’ Northern Wind Gap (Pinot Hill). Nothing but heavenly Pinot Noir at Emeritus, but who’s complaining?
Flanagan is definitely a family affair, with Eric Flanagan at the helm and 20 year old daughter Riley following in his footsteps with her own label, Riley’s Rows. Meeting Riley was awe-inspiring. Her bubbly personality and talent for winemaking is inherent and will serve her well in years to come.
Just as enchanting as the winery’s namesake, is the bucolic setting of Ted and Heidi Lemon’s Littorai Wines nestled in the far reaches between Sebastopol and Freestone. Ted’s love of Burgundian-style wines began almost 40 years ago when he apprenticed at several famous Old World wine estates in France and studied enology at the Université de Bourgogne. As an accomplished young winemaker, he was the first American hired to manage Domaine Guy Roulot in Mersault, France. Fast forward to today, where Littorai’s single vineyard wines are internationally distributed in 14 countries and grace the wine lists of top restaurants nationwide.
This 30-acre farm is modeled on the 1920’s Philosopher/Scientist Rudolf Steiner’s vision of an integrated farm, combining a holistic, biodynamic approach to farming. Over half of the property is dedicated as open rangeland for the resident grazing cows, sheep and chickens. Organic legumes, edible flowers and cereals are cultivated and composted, and eventually formulated into natural tea sprays for the vines. Bees and insects are welcomed as no pesticides or fertilizers are used at Littorai.
On three acres, The Pivot Vineyard Pinot Noir, is the estate’s only vineyard. The remaining acreage is cloaked in Redwood trees and dotted with meandering streams and wildlife. Grapes for Chardonnay and other single vineyard Pinot Noir are sourced from the coastal mountains of Sonoma and Mendocino Counties, hence the name Littorai.
What makes a Littorai Pinot Noir from one coast different from the other? In short, a Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir tends to have a more tannic structure, with spice tones (peppers, savory, sage, marjoram) while the Russian River Valley Pinot Noir is associated with lush fruit, blackberry, raspberry and plum. Yet, the Anderson Valley Pinot Noir combines the best of the tannins from the Sonoma Coast and the darker fruits of the Russian River Valley.
Keeping with the “green building” theme, Littorai’s winery is constructed of hay bale walls, which provide consistent insulation and temperature control in the cellar. Solar panels minimize the electric costs, and all excess water used in the winemaking process is recycled back into the vineyard. The winery is also designed for wine movement via gravity flow, to avoid the use of pumps.
Vineyard tours and tastings are by appointment only, and well worth the inside look at how biodynamic farming produces some of the finest Chardonnay and Pinot Noir in Russian River Valley. 
