UNCORKED WINE TRAVELS

Musings Along The Wine Trails

Vin Santo Reigns In Chianti’s Medieval Hamlet of Castello di Volpaia

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On a recent trip to Tuscany, I had the good fortune to revisit the medieval hamlet of Castello di Volpaia, rising five miles atop the Tuscan hills near Radda in Chianti  The fortified borgo (village) dates back to the 11th century and is most well-known for it famous resident clockmaker and namesake, Lorenzo della Volpaia, and of course, its Vin Santo.

Vin Santo translates to “Holy Wine”, and is a type of Italian dessert wine.  One theory on the origin of  the “Holy Wine” is referenced in the historic use in the Catholic mass, where sweet wine was preferred.  Another claim dates back to the Renaissance era when wine merchants peddled the sweet nectar on the streets of Rome.

Interestingly, Vin Santo can be made sweet or bone dry, depending on how the wine is finished. Typically, Malvasia or Trebbiano grapes are used to craft a white Vin Santo and in Chianti, the flagship Sangiovese grape is used to make the red or rose Vin Santo.

Grapes destined for the dessert wine production are harvested in September or October and are hung to dry in the warm rafters or laid on straw mats in attics for several months, allowing the moisture to evaporate and the sugars to concentrate.  Sometimes these wines are also called “straw wines”.

The longer the wines are dried, the higher the residual sugar content, and the sweeter the wine. It is not uncommon to let the grapes dry naturally and hang in the rafters until March before crushing and fermenting the grapes.

Vin Santo is aged and stored in small oak barrels, for a minimum of 3 years and often aged up to 10 years.  The color of Vin Santo can range from pale to dark amber, even neon orange.

Vin Santo’s flavor profile has nutty or raisin notes with honey and cream attributes.  In Italy, Vin Santo is traditionally served with biscotti for dunking.

 

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Panzanello Winery Is Panzano In Chianti’s Brightest Shining Star

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11pz5jpgHaving just returned from a whirlwind trip to Tuscany and looking through my 800+ photos, undoubtedly,  Panzano In Chianti is absolutely one of the most beautiful  places in Italy.  With a population of less than 1,200 people, the charming hilltop village of Panzano lies mid-way between Siena and Florence, right in the heart of Chianti Classico wine country.

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Anthony Bourdain, Rick Steeves and other travel writers often boast about Panzano’s famous resident butcher, Dario Cecchini  (read about Dario Cecchini on my blog)  But for Sangiovese lovers, Panzano is more about the legendary Chianti Classico wines.

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A scenic winding road outside the city center of Panzano leads to Panzanello Winery. Time seems to stand still as you pass the shimmering silver-green olive groves and the fruit-laden vineyards as you slowly turn down the long driveway to Panzanello Winery.

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Tuscany’s Top 10 Wine Trivia

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In many ways, Sangiovese is to Chianti as Cabernet Sauvignon is to Bordeaux. Both form the base of wines that blend beautifully with other varietals, yet alone, they share a distinctive elegance and complexity. To impress your fellow oenophiles at the next dinner party, read on:

  1. Tuscany has 9 DOCG appellations that date back to the Etruscans in the 8th century BC. Sangiovese, Tuscany’s most prominent grape, is derived from the Latin sanguis Jovis, which literally translates to the “blood of Jove”.   Sangiovese is the premier grape varietal in Italy, planted on over 247,000 acres with 14 separate and distinct clones. Sangiovese thrives in direct sunlight at altitudes of 500 to 1600 feet. The higher elevations increase the diurnal temperature variation, helping the grapes maintain their balance of sugars and acidity as well as their aromatic qualities. 3m26JPG
  1. The Chianti zone is the largest classified wine region and produces over eight million cases of wine each year. The region is split into two DOCGs – Chianti and Chianti Classico. The larger Chianti zone is further divided into eight DOC sub-zones and produces white, other Rosso reds and Vin Santo.
  1. To be considered a Chianti Classico, wines must be 75% to 100% Sangiovese and can contain up to 20% of international varietals such as Cabernet and Merlot. Chianti Classico covers approximately 100 square miles between Florence and Siena and includes the communes of Castellina, Gaiole, Greve and Radda and five other neighboring communes.   Chianti Classico is required to be aged for a minimum of three years.5mp30JPG
  1. All but one Tuscany DOCG is comprised of Sangiovese grapes.  Vernaccia di San Gimignano DOCG produces the only white grape called Vernaccia . Other white grapes planted in Tuscany are Trebbiano, Malvasia, Vermantino and Chardonnay and are frequently used in blending wines.
  1. Vin Santo, also known as “holy wine”, is made of Trebbiano which is harvested in late fall and air-dried on straw mats until the start of Holy Week before bottling. Vin Santo ages for 3 to 10 years in small barrels and is produced in small quantities. Vin Santo makes an excellent Italian dessert wine.

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Tuscany’s Vignamaggio Vineyards – Home of Mona Lisa

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Glorious Vignamaggio ~ Courtesy of Vignamaggio Vineyards

Vignamaggio Vineyards is steeped with fascinating history!  For starters, Monna Lisa was born in Vignamaggio, (a tiny town in northern Chianti) in the 14th century.  Leonardo da Vinci (Leonardo from Vinci) lived a few miles away.  When Leonardo painted the aristocratic daughter of Gheradini, the magnificent setting of the Vignamaggio was painted in the background.

Mona Lisa
Leonardo Da Vinci’s Mona Lisa

I visited Vignamaggio Vineyards on my last day in Tuscany ~ the spring weather was anything but cooperative, rainy and blustery.

Bella Vignamaggio!
Bella Vignamaggio!

Vignamaggio (translates to May Vines), is nestled in the hills between Greve and Lamole, about 45 minutes from Firenze.  Idyllic winding roads up to the estate are flanked by olive trees and hardwoods.  The smell of burning wood was in the air.

Entry to Vignamaggio
Stately entry to Vignamaggio Vineyard and Wine Resort near Greve in Chiant

After trekking up the long driveway lined with hardwood trees to the top of the hill, I was warmly greeted by the charming Sandro Checcucci, my personal wine guide and host at Vignamaggio Vineyards.  The tasting room was warm and inviting. [Read more…]

Villa Cafaggio’s Super Tuscans Rock Panzano

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Buonvenuti a Panzano!
Benvenuti a Panzano!

My draw to the tiny hamlet of Panzano was two-fold…. one was to meet Dario Cecchini, the touted celebrity butcher featured on Anthony Bourdain’s No Reservations show, and revered by travel guru Rick Steves.  And, also to explore the many boutique wineries hidden off  the SR222, the Chianti Wine Trail.   As a point of reference, Panzano lies a few kilometers south of Greve, about 45 minutes from Firenze (Florence).

Picturesque and quiet....Panzano in Chianti
Picturesque and quiet….Panzano in Chianti

I visited over Pasqua (Easter) weekend and the weather was cool and misty, with scattered showers.  Not ideal, but with umbrella in hand, I made the best of it.  I enjoyed sitting in the village bakery with a cappuccino in hand, watching the local women scurry around town preparing for the big Pasqua family dinner.  Shop windows were lavishly decorated with giant chocolate eggs with hidden toys inside, all festively wrapped with pastel ribbons. [Read more…]