UNCORKED WINE TRAVELS

Musings Along The Wine Trails

Russian River Valley Welcomes Visitors in Uncertain Times…

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I had the pleasure to take a quick jaunt to Russian River Valley in North Sonoma County over the long Labor Day weekend with my lovely daughter Tara.   Perhaps, not the most ideal time to visit due to the smoldering wildfires, extreme heat and the pandemic.  But, it felt really good to travel again and to visit my favorite wineries and see familiar faces.  We were well-received all weekend and experienced some of the grandest tastings with super personal service.

Our first tasting adventure started at Dutton Estate for a Dusk Wine Tasting.  We were greeted by friendly faces with Dutton’s estate Hard Cider in hand and led to our table amidst the summer blooms surrounded by the vineyards and towering pines. Dutton’s Estate Sauvignon Blanc and gourmet charcuterie plate was most fitting for the glorious sundowner.

Our wine trip itinerary was focused primarily on Westside Road, where days before, all of the residents and wineries had been evacuated from the raging Wallbridge Fire, still semi-active over the crest of the hill.   A major arterial roadway, Westside Road had been closed in both directions for several weeks and was used by the fire crews to travel from Jenner to Dry Creek during the initial fire outbreak.

What was on everyone’s mind, but rarely spoken, was the topic of possible smoke taint in the vineyards.  Harvest was already mid-way in RRV with fruit still on the vines in many vineyards

Smoke taint would be the bane of many large and small growers and winemakers alike.  There was great uncertainty hanging in the smoky air with many wondering if there would be an actual 2020 wine production.

Our top reservation tastings included MacRostie Vineyards, Arista Vineyards and Flowers Vineyards, all off Westside Road.  As is elsewhere in California wine country, wine tastings are permitted outside only,  by appointment, with social distancing and face masks required when not seated.  Other than that, it was business as usual, albeit, without the crowds.  Winery staff were very gracious everywhere we went and happy to have visitors once again. [Read more…]

2019’s “Top 10” Eclectic RRV Wineries

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Everyone loves a “Top 10” list, so here are my recommendations, in alphabetical order as they’e all prime picks in that special wine region called Russian River Valley.   Besides the fabulous wines, it’s the people and stories behind the vines that make a visit to RRV so memorable and will keep you returning for more!

 1.  Arista

In the middle reach of the Russian River Valley lies Arista Winery, a family-owned artisanal winery.  Specializing in handcrafted Chardonnay and Pinot Noir, Arista is a true gem. Brothers Mark and Ben run the day-to-day winery operations, and oversee the mini-farm and organic gardens.

The journey from Westside Road is magical and meanders through spectacular Pinot Noir vineyards.  At the end of the long gated driveway, you will find a zen-like Japanese inspired facade with manicured gardens, ponds and walking paths.  Perfect for a wine-inspired picnic lunch.

By appointment only, the staff is super friendly and extremely knowledgeable and the wines speak volumes.  The only downside here is the one-year waiting list to join the McWilliams’ family wine club.

2. DRNK

One of the most memorable experiences last year was discovering DRNK Wines, another family-owned winery off Frei Road in rural Sebastopol aka Laguna Ridge growing area. Cleverly named, the initials D.R.N.K. represent inlaws Dale and Nancy Dougherty and Ryan and Katie Kunde who all share a love of family and good wine!

Ryan hails from five generations of vineyard management in Sonoma County and definitely knows how to select the top vineyards and grape varietals, utilizing drone technology.   One thing is certain, Ryan’s charismatic nature is endearing and his depth of enology is as impressive as the array of wines.

If you’re lucky,  perhaps you’ll be invited to taste some amazing vintage wines in the naturally cooled wine cave.  Current bottlings include Rose, Sauvignon Blanc, Chardonnay, Pinot Gris, Grenache Blanc, Pinot Noir, Merlot and Zinfandel.  Also by appointment, so call ahead and be prepared to be wow’d.

3.  Emeritus

Calling all Pinotphiles… Off the Gravenstein Highway in Sebastopol, you’ll find the highly touted Emeritus  Vineyards, another precious jewel along the wine road.  Found quite by happenstance, historically speaking, Emeritus‘ Hallberg Ranch is one of the area’s finest producing Pinot Noir vineyards.

An apple orchard in days gone by, the 110-acre Hallberg Ranch is truly a sight to behold.  Estate Pinot Noir grapes are also sourced from Annapolis’ Sonoma Coast (Welsly Vineyard) and Sebastopol Hills’ Northern Wind Gap (Pinot Hill).  Nothing but heavenly Pinot Noir at Emeritus, but who’s complaining?

A few of the best things about Emeritus, other than the stellar Pinot Noir tasting lineup is the one-on-one seated tasting experience, endless gorgeous vineyard views and the personal interaction with the highly trained staff.  Customized vineyard tours are offered throughout the year, with Spring and Summer being especially memorable.

4. Flanagan Winery

One of my newfound favorites is Flanagan Winery, located off Dry Creek Road, five minutes from Healdsburg.  By appointment only,  this little slice of heaven is sure to impress.  You’ll be instantly awed with the sweeping views of Dry Creek Valley and warmly welcomed by the gracious crew

Flanagan is definitely a family affair, with Eric Flanagan at the helm and 20 year old daughter Riley following in his footsteps with her own label, Riley’s Rows.  Meeting Riley was awe-inspiring.  Her bubbly personality and talent for winemaking is inherent and will serve her well in years to come.

Grapes are sourced from both estate and top vineyards in Bennet Valley, Bodega Bay, Russian River Valley, Petaluma Gap and Alexander Valley.  Whether your preference is Sauvignon Blanc, Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, Syrah, Cabernet Sauvignon or Merlot, Flanagan has something for everyone and is sure to delight.

5.  Flowers

After much anticipation and a mega-million dollar tasting room and property renovation, The House of Flowers opened their doors this Summer.  Flowers Winery  is situated off Westside Road, minutes from Healdsburg, on the old VML site.  While the vibe is more Napa-esque than the laid-back Sonoma style, Flowers has been well-received and is touted as the ultimate wine and food pairing offering in the Russian River Vall

The artfully prepared food pairings change with the season and compliment the four Chardonnay and Pinot Noir wines.  Definitely a must visit on a warm sunny afternoon! [Read more…]

Experience Cave-Aged Wines At DRNK Winery in Russian River Valley

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Atop the famed Laguna Ridge down an unmarked dirt lane off Frei Road near Sebastopol, amidst the vines, is the home of DRNK Winery.  DRNK is a family collaboration between Ryan and Katie Kunde and her parents, Dale and Nancy Dougherty.  Cleverly named, DRNK is a compilation of each family member’s first initial and so much more. 

Historically, the Sonoma Valley Kunde family has been making wine since the 1880’s.  As a young boy, Ryan scouted vineyard sights with his grandfather and learned his way around the cellar and bottling line with his father.  Often mentoring with notable winemakers, Ryan’s fascination of blending wine eventually led to advanced studies in Enology and Viticulture at UC Davis.  Fast forward to 2012, when Ryan, a fifth generation winemaker, ventured out on his own in search of new and unique vineyard sites using drone technology.

One of only four wine caves in the Russian River Valley, this spectacular 300′ long subterranean cave’s natural temperature is a constant 58 degrees year round with 85% average humidity.  Absolutely perfect for aging wine.  Designed to hold 500 barrels, there’s also several alcoves for private tastings and events. 

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Windsor’s Notre Vue Estate’s Unabashed Views Are Worth The Drive

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Always up for an adventure, I was curious about the seemingly bold name for a winery, Notre Vue, (translates to Our View), an off-the-beaten path winery situated a few miles east of the town of Windsor.   My directions were vague at best, so I proceeded up the lone dirt road, passing through the gates of the old Windsor Oaks vineyards, veering to the left, careening to the right, for what seemed a few miles, all the way to the end of the road.

All I can say is that the name Notre Vue is an understatement.  The expansive Notre Vue Estate sits high atop a ridge, surrounded by over 350 acres of wild preserved open space, with panoramic views stretching from the Russian River Valley all the way east to the Mayacama Mountains, with St. Helena as a backdrop.

Over 250 acres are planted to Bordeaux, Rhone and Italian varietals, allowing for small lot production. Notre Vue varietals include Dolcetto, Viognier, Chardonnay, Muscat, Sauvignon Blanc, Pinot Gris, Malbec, Mouvedre, Petite Verdot, Petit Syrah, Sangiovese, Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon, Zinfandel, Merlot and Grenache.  A second label, Balverne, produces a reserve Pinot Noir and Chardonnay, Rosé, Sauvignon Blanc and Cabernet Sauvignon.   [Read more…]

Cheers To Russian River Valley’s “Uneventful” 2018 Harvest!

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By far, harvest is my favorite time of year in any wine country.  The sweet smell of ripe grapes fill the air as they wait their turn on the vines to be picked.  Night picking is the norm in Sonoma County’s Russian River Valley as the cool late summer nights provide a natural refrigeration, delaying oxidation and spoilage before the grapes get into the winery for processing.

Driving around the vineyards between sundown and sunrise can be a surreal sight as the fields are ablaze with spotlights, providing the ideal backdrop for the night workers.   (Photo courtesy of Jordan Vineyard & Winery).  The deafening din of the tractors and heavy harvest machinery can be heard for miles as the grapes are quickly harvested. Within hours, the vines are stripped and the grapes are loaded into large plastic bins and hauled off to the winery’s crush pad.

Upon arrival, the grapes travel down a vibrating conveyor belt where they are hand-sorted.  Undesirable grapes or under ripened grapes are removed by the sorters.  In larger winery operations, the grapes may be laser optically sorted instead. Depending on the varietal and wine style, grapes may be placed in a de-stemmer machine which effectively removes the stems to avoid bitterness, or in some cases, the grapes are placed in separate bins, with the stems to add tannin, for whole cluster fermentation.

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