UNCORKED WINE TRAVELS

Musings Along The Wine Trails

Russian River Valley Welcomes Visitors in Uncertain Times…

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I had the pleasure to take a quick jaunt to Russian River Valley in North Sonoma County over the long Labor Day weekend with my lovely daughter Tara.   Perhaps, not the most ideal time to visit due to the smoldering wildfires, extreme heat and the pandemic.  But, it felt really good to travel again and to visit my favorite wineries and see familiar faces.  We were well-received all weekend and experienced some of the grandest tastings with super personal service.

Our first tasting adventure started at Dutton Estate for a Dusk Wine Tasting.  We were greeted by friendly faces with Dutton’s estate Hard Cider in hand and led to our table amidst the summer blooms surrounded by the vineyards and towering pines. Dutton’s Estate Sauvignon Blanc and gourmet charcuterie plate was most fitting for the glorious sundowner.

Our wine trip itinerary was focused primarily on Westside Road, where days before, all of the residents and wineries had been evacuated from the raging Wallbridge Fire, still semi-active over the crest of the hill.   A major arterial roadway, Westside Road had been closed in both directions for several weeks and was used by the fire crews to travel from Jenner to Dry Creek during the initial fire outbreak.

What was on everyone’s mind, but rarely spoken, was the topic of possible smoke taint in the vineyards.  Harvest was already mid-way in RRV with fruit still on the vines in many vineyards

Smoke taint would be the bane of many large and small growers and winemakers alike.  There was great uncertainty hanging in the smoky air with many wondering if there would be an actual 2020 wine production.

Our top reservation tastings included MacRostie Vineyards, Arista Vineyards and Flowers Vineyards, all off Westside Road.  As is elsewhere in California wine country, wine tastings are permitted outside only,  by appointment, with social distancing and face masks required when not seated.  Other than that, it was business as usual, albeit, without the crowds.  Winery staff were very gracious everywhere we went and happy to have visitors once again. [Read more…]

The Lifecycle of a Grape Vine ~ From Vine To Wine

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When Spring arrives, the lifecycle of the grape begins anew.  Bud break signals the start of the grape growing season.  Depending on the weather, bud break generally occurs in mid-March or early April in the Northern Hemisphere.   The vines awaken from dormancy and start pumping energy into the woody part of the vine to produce buds.  Barring any hailstorms or damaging spring frost, nature prepares for photosynthesis and warmer weather.

As bud break turns into vegetative growth, the next process of the grape vine begins from April to May.  Flowering is when bunches of tiny flowers bloom from the new vine shoots. Grape vines are self-pollinating, so each of these flowers has the potential to turn into a single berry.

The next growth stage, fruit set, is critical as it determines the potential crop yield for the harvest.  As the summer months near, the pollinated flower drops its petals and tiny green grape berry clusters with seeds develop at the end of the stem.  Not every flower is fertilized into a berry, so it simply falls off the vine.

Veraison occurs in mid-summer, when the green berry clusters begin to expose their color pigmentation. Veraison stems from a French viticulture term meaning “the onset of grape ripening”.   This is the process in which the berry clusters begin ripening and turning purple or blueish in color, depending upon the grape varietal.  White grape varietals turn golden yellow in the same fashion. The heat of summer induces sugar development and ripening in each grape, while the cool evenings preserve natural acidity and freshness.

Harvest is the much anticipated culmination of the grape growth cycle.  Global warming has dramatically altered the traditional September to November harvest time.  It is common practice to harvest in the middle of the night in warmer areas when the grapes are cool and the sugars are resting.  It’s a little sad to see the vines stripped of their fruit after harvest, but it’s all part of nature’s way.  Soon, the vines will be dormant and the grape lifecycle will repeat itself.  Here’s to a great growing season with no drama!

Cheers To Russian River Valley’s “Uneventful” 2018 Harvest!

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By far, harvest is my favorite time of year in any wine country.  The sweet smell of ripe grapes fill the air as they wait their turn on the vines to be picked.  Night picking is the norm in Sonoma County’s Russian River Valley as the cool late summer nights provide a natural refrigeration, delaying oxidation and spoilage before the grapes get into the winery for processing.

Driving around the vineyards between sundown and sunrise can be a surreal sight as the fields are ablaze with spotlights, providing the ideal backdrop for the night workers.   (Photo courtesy of Jordan Vineyard & Winery).  The deafening din of the tractors and heavy harvest machinery can be heard for miles as the grapes are quickly harvested. Within hours, the vines are stripped and the grapes are loaded into large plastic bins and hauled off to the winery’s crush pad.

Upon arrival, the grapes travel down a vibrating conveyor belt where they are hand-sorted.  Undesirable grapes or under ripened grapes are removed by the sorters.  In larger winery operations, the grapes may be laser optically sorted instead. Depending on the varietal and wine style, grapes may be placed in a de-stemmer machine which effectively removes the stems to avoid bitterness, or in some cases, the grapes are placed in separate bins, with the stems to add tannin, for whole cluster fermentation.

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2017 Russian River Valley Grape Harvest Is One For The Record Books

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“Wine is sunlight, held together by water.”  Galileo Galilei

My yearly tradition, is to travel to a different wine region to observe the grape harvest.  Last year I was fortunate to be in Tuscany for la vendemmia, and this year I chose my all-time favorite Russian River Valley in Northern Sonoma County to observe the harvest.  There’s something magical about harvest time.  There’s a sweetness in the air of the grapes hanging on the vines and a musical trill of the grape press as it hums along.   It’s a time of high energy, camaraderie, bustle and communion with nature in the vineyards, but it can also mean anxiety, sleepless nights, anticipation, relief and ultimately, jubilation for the wine maker.

Depending on who you talked to, wine makers had various opinions as to the projected quality and yield of the 2017 grape harvest.  Wild weather conditions this year brought relief from the severe drought with heavy winter rains, which submerged vineyards in low-lying areas, an early Spring bud break and late Summer temperature heat spikes which ripened the grapes sooner than usual.  And then there was predicted rain during harvest, again, unusual.   All this, and more, make for interesting wine fodder around harvest time.

Harvest Moon Winery owner and wine maker extraordinaire, Randy Pitts, greeted me with a big smile and a paper cup of his freshly pressed Pinot Noir.  Optimistic as always, Randy was pleased with the harvest so far, although there were still grapes to be hand-picked in nearby vineyards and much work to be done.

Randy explained that night harvesting was commonplace in Russian River Valley.  Harvesting at night when the temperatures are cooler, helps to maintain the acidity in the grapes, which in turn, delays oxidation and spoilage before the grapes get into the winery for processing.

Indeed, it truly was  an eerie sight to see the dim sea of headlamps and blazing tractor lights dotting the vineyards in the late night  and wee morning hours.

There’s a lot that goes on behind the scenes at harvest time, and getting the grapes to the winery production pad is only the first step.  Here’s to a great 2017 harvest and amazing future releases!  www.harvestmoonwinery.com 

For The Love Of Grapes ~ Harvest Time In Sonoma County

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IMG_9681An exhilarating time to experience Sonoma County Wine Country is during the harvest, which for the second year in a row, began as one of the earliest on record.

karissa“Growers have kept a fast pace since the start of harvest here in Sonoma County,” said Karissa Kruse, president of the Sonoma County Winegrowers. “For some, picking schedules that usually occur over the course of a month have been condensed into a one or two week time frame this season.”

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By Labor Day, the Chardonnay and Pinot Noir had already been picked in the Russian River Valley and the vines were starting to yellow.  The vineyard activity was quiet, however, the cellar workers were in high gear!

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Littorai Wines, Sebastopol  ~ Sorting Table 

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Dutton Estate, Russian River Valley ~ Field Bins [Read more…]