UNCORKED WINE TRAVELS

Musings Along The Wine Trails

Littorai Wines ~ A Tale of Two Coasts & Three Pinot Noir Styles

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LITTORAI (lit’tōr’ī): a plural derivative of the Latin world Litor, which means the coasts.

Just as enchanting as the winery’s namesake, is the bucolic setting of Ted and Heidi Lemon’s Littorai Wines nestled in the far reaches between Sebastopol and Freestone. Ted’s love of Burgundian-style wines began almost 40 years ago when he apprenticed at several famous Old World wine estates in France and studied enology at the Université de Bourgogne.  As an accomplished young winemaker, he was the first American hired to manage Domaine Guy Roulot in Mersault, France.  Fast forward to today, where Littorai’s single vineyard wines are internationally distributed in 14 countries and grace the wine lists of top restaurants nationwide.

This 30-acre farm is modeled on the 1920’s Philosopher/Scientist Rudolf Steiner’s vision of an integrated farm, combining a holistic, biodynamic approach to farming.  Over half of the property is dedicated as open rangeland for the resident grazing cows, sheep and chickens. Organic legumes, edible flowers and cereals are cultivated and composted, and eventually formulated into natural tea sprays for the vines. Bees and insects are welcomed as no pesticides or fertilizers are used at Littorai.

On three acres, The Pivot Vineyard Pinot Noir, is the estate’s only vineyard.   The remaining acreage is cloaked in Redwood trees and dotted with meandering streams and wildlife.  Grapes for Chardonnay and other single vineyard Pinot Noir are sourced from the coastal mountains of Sonoma and Mendocino Counties, hence the name Littorai.

What makes a Littorai Pinot Noir from one coast different from the other?  In short, a Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir tends to have a more tannic structure, with spice tones (peppers, savory, sage, marjoram) while the Russian River Valley Pinot Noir is associated with lush fruit, blackberry, raspberry and plum.  Yet, the Anderson Valley Pinot Noir combines the best of the tannins from the Sonoma Coast and the darker fruits of the Russian River Valley.

Keeping with the “green building” theme,  Littorai’s winery is constructed of hay bale walls, which provide consistent insulation and temperature control in the cellar.  Solar panels minimize the electric costs, and all excess water used in the winemaking process is recycled back into the vineyard.  The winery is also designed for wine movement via gravity flow, to avoid the use of pumps.

Vineyard tours and tastings are by appointment only, and well worth the inside look at how biodynamic farming produces some of the finest Chardonnay and Pinot Noir in Russian River Valley.  www.littorai.com

After Much Ado, “House of Flowers” Debuts In Russian River Valley

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The long-awaited “House of Flowers” tasting room made its debut in July 2019 in the beautiful Russian River Valley.  Flowers Vineyards & Winery is situated on Westside Road, seven miles from downtown Healdsburg on the old VML Winery site.  The property has been magically transformed and the provenςal gardens have been renewed to its glory days. Scores of hummingbirds buzz through the colorful flowers as if on cue.

Water features have suddenly sprung to life and the towering pines still stand guard over the Pinot Noir vineyards.  Flowers’ elevated food and wine pairing experience is well-orchestrated from the moment of arrival.  Guests are greeted with a chilled 2018 Pinot Noir Rose and a mini tour of the gardens. Cabanas and patio tables are strategically positioned facing the vineyards with the Mayacamas and Mt. St. Helena as a picture-perfect backdrop.

Indeed, Flowers has a fascinating backstory.  East coast horticulturists Walt and Joan Flowers headed west with a handful of vitis viniferous cuttings and a dream to own a vineyard.  In the late 1980s, the rugged Sonoma coast was unchartered territory for grape growing.  After much searching, high above the fog line at 1100 feet, they discovered a remote, untouched piece of paradise.  Formerly a trading ground with the Pomo Indians and Russian fur traders, Flowers’ literally put down roots in 1991.

Chardonnay and Pinot Noir grapes were planted on Camp Meeting Ridge and shortly thereafter, another mountaintop property was acquired, known now as Sea View Ridge.  The rest is history. With the efforts of the Flowers and top producer neighbors, (Hirsch, Marcassin, Martinelli, Bohan, Peter Michaels, Pahlmeyer and Failla to name a few), the under- appreciated Fort Ross-Seaview AVA was granted in 2012.   [Read more…]

Best Backroads For Cycling In RRV-Healdsburg Wine Country

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Whether you’re an avid cyclist or a leisurely day tripper, there’s no finer place to bike ride than the backroads of Russian River Valley and Dry Creek Valley wine country.  Undulating roads twist and bend between the towering redwoods and gracefully wind beside endless acres of premium vineyards between Windsor and Healdsburg.

One of the top local cycling treks is Healdsburg’s Westside Road to Dry Creek Road.  It’s an easy scenic ride along the Russian River, paralleling some of the finest Pinot Noir and Chardonnay vineyards.  Coming from Windsor, Mark West Station Road is a bit more remote with less traffic, as is Eastside Road.  All roads eventually lead to Healdsburg.

There’s no shortage of postcard scenery.  Traffic is light most times during the weekdays and the pavement is fairly even and well-maintained, however, cyclists need to heed attention as the roads are crowned and the shoulder is non-existent in places.

Stop, swirl and sip at the eclectic Porter Creek Vineyard where the vines meet the Redwoods and the chickens roam freely or continue further down the road for a bonafide rest stop at the trendy MacRostie Vineyard for a seated tasting of Chardonnay and Pinot Noir.  St. Helena and the Mayacama Mountains serve as a picture perfect backdrop as you pedal north toward Dry Creek Valley.

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Experience Cave-Aged Wines At DRNK Winery in Russian River Valley

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Atop the famed Laguna Ridge down an unmarked dirt lane off Frei Road near Sebastopol, amidst the vines, is the home of DRNK Winery.  DRNK is a family collaboration between Ryan and Katie Kunde and her parents, Dale and Nancy Dougherty.  Cleverly named, DRNK is a compilation of each family member’s first initial and so much more. 

Historically, the Sonoma Valley Kunde family has been making wine since the 1880’s.  As a young boy, Ryan scouted vineyard sights with his grandfather and learned his way around the cellar and bottling line with his father.  Often mentoring with notable winemakers, Ryan’s fascination of blending wine eventually led to advanced studies in Enology and Viticulture at UC Davis.  Fast forward to 2012, when Ryan, a fifth generation winemaker, ventured out on his own in search of new and unique vineyard sites using drone technology.

One of only four wine caves in the Russian River Valley, this spectacular 300′ long subterranean cave’s natural temperature is a constant 58 degrees year round with 85% average humidity.  Absolutely perfect for aging wine.  Designed to hold 500 barrels, there’s also several alcoves for private tastings and events. 

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Best Kept Secret in Sta. Rita Hills ~ Spear Vineyards & Winery

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Quite by happenstance, the highlight of my recent wine trek to Sta. Rita Hills AVA was discovering Spear Vineyards & Winery off Highway 246 in Lompoc.  While tasting at a neighboring winery, it was suggested that I make an appointment at Spear for “a true vineyard tasting experience.”

Much to my delight, I was welcomed to the newly opened tasting room for a private seated tasting. Unobstructed views of the vibrant Chardonnay vineyard surround the eclectic tasting room, formerly a 1920’s dairy barn and creamery, complete with towering silo.  Needless to say, the views were nothing less than spectacular.

Even more of a surprise, was meeting the young and upcoming Winemaker, Kat Gaffney.  Instantly, Kat’s laid-back, unpretentious manner put me at ease and led to many questions about her burgeoning wine path.

Kat started as a harvest intern in 2011 in San Luis Obispo, later working as a “flying winemaker.” Chasing harvests from the northern hemisphere to the southern hemisphere led her to cellar ventures in New Zealand, Oregon and Santa Barbara County.

Ego aside, Kat’s elegant Old World-style winemaking philosophy is simply to allow the pure expression of the fruit to present itself, with minimal intervention.  The small lot wines are artfully handcrafted using small cluster fermentation.  Grapes are carefully processed via gravity flow rather than traditional mechanical pumps, which can damage and bruise the fruit.  Wines are then aged in neutral French oak barrels to retain the varietal characteristics.

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