UNCORKED WINE TRAVELS

Musings Along The Wine Trails

Freeman Vineyard & Winery’s Cave Tasting Is A “10”

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One of Russian River Valley’s hidden treasures is Freeman Vineyard & Winery in Sebastopol.  Weave your way along redwood studded roads to the little neighborhood gem on Montgomery Road.  Be sure and call ahead for a tasting appointment as it’s a small boutique winery.  Chances are, you’ll be greeted by winemaker Akiko Freeman herself.

Established in 2001, Ken and Akiko Freeman determined that the cool, rugged reaches of western Sonoma County would be the ideal spot to plant Pinot Noir and Chardonnay. Fruit is sourced from the Gloria Estate Vineyard, located adjacent to the couples’ home and wine cave, and from the Yu-Ki Estate Vineyard, which sits at 1,000 feet elevation only five miles from the Pacific Ocean near the town of Occidental.  Both vineyards employ organic and biodynamic farming for the most part with owl boxes as natural rodent control in the vineyards.

Tastings and special events are hosted in the wine cave where the ambient temperature is around 59 degrees.  The cool climate Pinot Noir and Chardonnay is one of the finest in Russian River Valley.  As a matter of fact, several years ago, the White House featured a Freeman Winery Chardonnay at a state dinner to welcome Japanese Prime Minister Shinzo Abe.

Friendly hostesses  like Kelly Keller, or Jessica Gengler are always on hand to pour the amazing wines and to share fun stories.  There’s several beautiful picnic areas under the towering redwoods with endless views of the vineyard in the distance.  And, there’s even a cottage available at the top of the property if you want to extend your stay.

2021’s Top 10 Winery Picks off Russian River Valley’s Iconic Westside Road

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Thought I’d share my favorite Top 10, most fun, top notch wineries along Russian River’s highly touted Westside Road.  If you’re new to Russian River Valley and love artisanal Pinot Noir, Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc, Zinfandel or Cabernet Sauvignon, I highly recommend planning a few days wine tasting on Westside Road.  Starting from the far west end of Westside Road, moving toward Healdsburg, here are my top 10 picks for 2021 ~ Cheers!

1.  Moshin Vineyards – One of my all-time favorite wineries at the far west end of Westside Road!  Look for the giant metal hummingbird hovering over the treetops to guide the way to the tasting room.  Moshin is always fun and funky, with unique local art displayed in the tasting room.  There’s a wide range of of small production wines available for tasting, including sparkling wine and a great line up of Pinot Noir.  Friendly wine hosts engage with the guests and are eager to share their stories.

 2.  Porter Creek Vineyards – No trip is complete without a visit to Porter Creek.  The dollhouse-like tasting room holds about six people comfortably but long-time wine host Jonathan will always make room for more.  The Pinot Noir and Chardonnay wines are meticulously crafted by winemaker Alex Davis, who studied viticulture at the Université de Bourgogne before taking the reins at the family winery.  Other varietals produced include Viognier, Syrah, Zinfandel and Carignane.

3.  Thomas George Estates – Plan ahead and reserve a cave wine tasting or take a wine safari aboard a vintage Pinzgauer to the top of Baker Ridge vineyard to revel at the panoramic view.  Enjoy an estate four course picnic lunch, complete with a select bottle of estate Pinot Noir.  Thomas George was originally a hop kiln in the 1920s, later owned by the late wine pioneer Davis Bynum who planted some of the first Pinot Noir, Chardonnay and Grenache Noir in Russian River Valley.  Truly a spectacular property with gorgeous lush gardens and towering trees, and of course, a wine cave.

4.  Landmark Vineyards at Hop Kiln Estate – Heading toward Healdsburg at a hairpin turn, you’ll find the historic Walters Hop Kiln.   Built in 1905 by a crew of Italian stonemasons, it represents the finest existing example of its type, consisting of three stone kilns for drying hops, a wooden cooler, and a two-story press for bailing hops.  In the late 1890’s, the property was a stagecoach stop.  Here you’ll find mostly Pinot Noir and Chardonnay, Grenache and Pinot Gris.  Now corporate-owned by Landmark, the ambience is still rustic and worthy of a quick stop to grab a glass and marvel at the restored hop kilns.

5.  MacRostie Winery & Vineyards – Hands down, some of the best views along Westside Road, looking out to Mount Saint Helena and the Mayacamas.  One of the newer wineries, MacRostie, is always packed to capacity, so reserve days ahead.  The tastings are seated and not rushed, with great individual interaction with entertaining and knowledgeable wine hosts.  Guests are greeted with a cold glass of Rosé or Sauvignon Blanc, depending on the season, and escorted to a view table. Side by side tastings are common with the many single vineyard Pinot Noir and Chardonnay wines.  Can’t say enough about MacRostie ~ it’s top of the list for me! [Read more…]

Kickstart The Weekend In DRNK’s Wine Cave

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No better way to kick off your Russian River Valley Wine tasting trek than at DRNK off Frei Road in Sebastopol.  Ryan Kunde is one of my favorite, and most talented, winemakers in Sonoma County and is known to showcase the most diverse wine tasting flights.  Ryan is in a league of his own as a fifth generation winegrower from the notable Sonoma 1880s pioneer wine family of Kunde.

DRNK is a moniker for the first initials of inlaws Dale and Nancy Dougherty and wife Katy.  Founded in 2012, DRNK is one of only four wine caves in the RRV AVA and features one of the most diverse and fun wine tasting experiences.  An avid drone pilot, Ryan uses the technology to scout new vineyards and to source fruit from premium vineyard sites throughout Sonoma County.

DRNK‘s vibrant 2020 Sauvignon Blanc and the five Bordeaux varietals found in the 2018 Red Blend are grown on the Kunde Estate’s Wildwood Vineyards in Sonoma Valley.  Looking for something different?  Try the 2020 Pinot Gris ‘Orange Wine’ from Bennet Valley.  A perfect Summer wine, as is the very limited 2020 Rose of Pinot Noir from the Russian Valley. For the traditionalists, the stellar lineup of Pinot Noir from Sonoma Coast’s 2017 Pinot Hill Vineyards or 2018 Russian River Green Valley vineyards is always guaranteed to please. [Read more…]

Russian River Valley Welcomes Visitors in Uncertain Times…

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I had the pleasure to take a quick jaunt to Russian River Valley in North Sonoma County over the long Labor Day weekend with my lovely daughter Tara.   Perhaps, not the most ideal time to visit due to the smoldering wildfires, extreme heat and the pandemic.  But, it felt really good to travel again and to visit my favorite wineries and see familiar faces.  We were well-received all weekend and experienced some of the grandest tastings with super personal service.

Our first tasting adventure started at Dutton Estate for a Dusk Wine Tasting.  We were greeted by friendly faces with Dutton’s estate Hard Cider in hand and led to our table amidst the summer blooms surrounded by the vineyards and towering pines. Dutton’s Estate Sauvignon Blanc and gourmet charcuterie plate was most fitting for the glorious sundowner.

Our wine trip itinerary was focused primarily on Westside Road, where days before, all of the residents and wineries had been evacuated from the raging Wallbridge Fire, still semi-active over the crest of the hill.   A major arterial roadway, Westside Road had been closed in both directions for several weeks and was used by the fire crews to travel from Jenner to Dry Creek during the initial fire outbreak.

What was on everyone’s mind, but rarely spoken, was the topic of possible smoke taint in the vineyards.  Harvest was already mid-way in RRV with fruit still on the vines in many vineyards

Smoke taint would be the bane of many large and small growers and winemakers alike.  There was great uncertainty hanging in the smoky air with many wondering if there would be an actual 2020 wine production.

Our top reservation tastings included MacRostie Vineyards, Arista Vineyards and Flowers Vineyards, all off Westside Road.  As is elsewhere in California wine country, wine tastings are permitted outside only,  by appointment, with social distancing and face masks required when not seated.  Other than that, it was business as usual, albeit, without the crowds.  Winery staff were very gracious everywhere we went and happy to have visitors once again. [Read more…]

2019’s “Top 10” Eclectic RRV Wineries

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Everyone loves a “Top 10” list, so here are my recommendations, in alphabetical order as they’e all prime picks in that special wine region called Russian River Valley.   Besides the fabulous wines, it’s the people and stories behind the vines that make a visit to RRV so memorable and will keep you returning for more!

 1.  Arista

In the middle reach of the Russian River Valley lies Arista Winery, a family-owned artisanal winery.  Specializing in handcrafted Chardonnay and Pinot Noir, Arista is a true gem. Brothers Mark and Ben run the day-to-day winery operations, and oversee the mini-farm and organic gardens.

The journey from Westside Road is magical and meanders through spectacular Pinot Noir vineyards.  At the end of the long gated driveway, you will find a zen-like Japanese inspired facade with manicured gardens, ponds and walking paths.  Perfect for a wine-inspired picnic lunch.

By appointment only, the staff is super friendly and extremely knowledgeable and the wines speak volumes.  The only downside here is the one-year waiting list to join the McWilliams’ family wine club.

2. DRNK

One of the most memorable experiences last year was discovering DRNK Wines, another family-owned winery off Frei Road in rural Sebastopol aka Laguna Ridge growing area. Cleverly named, the initials D.R.N.K. represent inlaws Dale and Nancy Dougherty and Ryan and Katie Kunde who all share a love of family and good wine!

Ryan hails from five generations of vineyard management in Sonoma County and definitely knows how to select the top vineyards and grape varietals, utilizing drone technology.   One thing is certain, Ryan’s charismatic nature is endearing and his depth of enology is as impressive as the array of wines.

If you’re lucky,  perhaps you’ll be invited to taste some amazing vintage wines in the naturally cooled wine cave.  Current bottlings include Rose, Sauvignon Blanc, Chardonnay, Pinot Gris, Grenache Blanc, Pinot Noir, Merlot and Zinfandel.  Also by appointment, so call ahead and be prepared to be wow’d.

3.  Emeritus

Calling all Pinotphiles… Off the Gravenstein Highway in Sebastopol, you’ll find the highly touted Emeritus  Vineyards, another precious jewel along the wine road.  Found quite by happenstance, historically speaking, Emeritus‘ Hallberg Ranch is one of the area’s finest producing Pinot Noir vineyards.

An apple orchard in days gone by, the 110-acre Hallberg Ranch is truly a sight to behold.  Estate Pinot Noir grapes are also sourced from Annapolis’ Sonoma Coast (Welsly Vineyard) and Sebastopol Hills’ Northern Wind Gap (Pinot Hill).  Nothing but heavenly Pinot Noir at Emeritus, but who’s complaining?

A few of the best things about Emeritus, other than the stellar Pinot Noir tasting lineup is the one-on-one seated tasting experience, endless gorgeous vineyard views and the personal interaction with the highly trained staff.  Customized vineyard tours are offered throughout the year, with Spring and Summer being especially memorable.

4. Flanagan Winery

One of my newfound favorites is Flanagan Winery, located off Dry Creek Road, five minutes from Healdsburg.  By appointment only,  this little slice of heaven is sure to impress.  You’ll be instantly awed with the sweeping views of Dry Creek Valley and warmly welcomed by the gracious crew

Flanagan is definitely a family affair, with Eric Flanagan at the helm and 20 year old daughter Riley following in his footsteps with her own label, Riley’s Rows.  Meeting Riley was awe-inspiring.  Her bubbly personality and talent for winemaking is inherent and will serve her well in years to come.

Grapes are sourced from both estate and top vineyards in Bennet Valley, Bodega Bay, Russian River Valley, Petaluma Gap and Alexander Valley.  Whether your preference is Sauvignon Blanc, Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, Syrah, Cabernet Sauvignon or Merlot, Flanagan has something for everyone and is sure to delight.

5.  Flowers

After much anticipation and a mega-million dollar tasting room and property renovation, The House of Flowers opened their doors this Summer.  Flowers Winery  is situated off Westside Road, minutes from Healdsburg, on the old VML site.  While the vibe is more Napa-esque than the laid-back Sonoma style, Flowers has been well-received and is touted as the ultimate wine and food pairing offering in the Russian River Vall

The artfully prepared food pairings change with the season and compliment the four Chardonnay and Pinot Noir wines.  Definitely a must visit on a warm sunny afternoon! [Read more…]