UNCORKED WINE TRAVELS

Musings Along The Wine Trails

Littorai Wines ~ A Tale of Two Coasts & Three Pinot Noir Styles

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LITTORAI (lit’tōr’ī): a plural derivative of the Latin world Litor, which means the coasts.

Just as enchanting as the winery’s namesake, is the bucolic setting of Ted and Heidi Lemon’s Littorai Wines nestled in the far reaches between Sebastopol and Freestone. Ted’s love of Burgundian-style wines began almost 40 years ago when he apprenticed at several famous Old World wine estates in France and studied enology at the Université de Bourgogne.  As an accomplished young winemaker, he was the first American hired to manage Domaine Guy Roulot in Mersault, France.  Fast forward to today, where Littorai’s single vineyard wines are internationally distributed in 14 countries and grace the wine lists of top restaurants nationwide.

This 30-acre farm is modeled on the 1920’s Philosopher/Scientist Rudolf Steiner’s vision of an integrated farm, combining a holistic, biodynamic approach to farming.  Over half of the property is dedicated as open rangeland for the resident grazing cows, sheep and chickens. Organic legumes, edible flowers and cereals are cultivated and composted, and eventually formulated into natural tea sprays for the vines. Bees and insects are welcomed as no pesticides or fertilizers are used at Littorai.

On three acres, The Pivot Vineyard Pinot Noir, is the estate’s only vineyard.   The remaining acreage is cloaked in Redwood trees and dotted with meandering streams and wildlife.  Grapes for Chardonnay and other single vineyard Pinot Noir are sourced from the coastal mountains of Sonoma and Mendocino Counties, hence the name Littorai.

What makes a Littorai Pinot Noir from one coast different from the other?  In short, a Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir tends to have a more tannic structure, with spice tones (peppers, savory, sage, marjoram) while the Russian River Valley Pinot Noir is associated with lush fruit, blackberry, raspberry and plum.  Yet, the Anderson Valley Pinot Noir combines the best of the tannins from the Sonoma Coast and the darker fruits of the Russian River Valley.

Keeping with the “green building” theme,  Littorai’s winery is constructed of hay bale walls, which provide consistent insulation and temperature control in the cellar.  Solar panels minimize the electric costs, and all excess water used in the winemaking process is recycled back into the vineyard.  The winery is also designed for wine movement via gravity flow, to avoid the use of pumps.

Vineyard tours and tastings are by appointment only, and well worth the inside look at how biodynamic farming produces some of the finest Chardonnay and Pinot Noir in Russian River Valley.  www.littorai.com

After Much Ado, “House of Flowers” Debuts In Russian River Valley

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The long-awaited “House of Flowers” tasting room made its debut in July 2019 in the beautiful Russian River Valley.  Flowers Vineyards & Winery is situated on Westside Road, seven miles from downtown Healdsburg on the old VML Winery site.  The property has been magically transformed and the provenςal gardens have been renewed to its glory days. Scores of hummingbirds buzz through the colorful flowers as if on cue.

Water features have suddenly sprung to life and the towering pines still stand guard over the Pinot Noir vineyards.  Flowers’ elevated food and wine pairing experience is well-orchestrated from the moment of arrival.  Guests are greeted with a chilled 2018 Pinot Noir Rose and a mini tour of the gardens. Cabanas and patio tables are strategically positioned facing the vineyards with the Mayacamas and Mt. St. Helena as a picture-perfect backdrop.

Indeed, Flowers has a fascinating backstory.  East coast horticulturists Walt and Joan Flowers headed west with a handful of vitis viniferous cuttings and a dream to own a vineyard.  In the late 1980s, the rugged Sonoma coast was unchartered territory for grape growing.  After much searching, high above the fog line at 1100 feet, they discovered a remote, untouched piece of paradise.  Formerly a trading ground with the Pomo Indians and Russian fur traders, Flowers’ literally put down roots in 1991.

Chardonnay and Pinot Noir grapes were planted on Camp Meeting Ridge and shortly thereafter, another mountaintop property was acquired, known now as Sea View Ridge.  The rest is history. With the efforts of the Flowers and top producer neighbors, (Hirsch, Marcassin, Martinelli, Bohan, Peter Michaels, Pahlmeyer and Failla to name a few), the under- appreciated Fort Ross-Seaview AVA was granted in 2012.   [Read more…]

Experience Cave-Aged Wines At DRNK Winery in Russian River Valley

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Atop the famed Laguna Ridge down an unmarked dirt lane off Frei Road near Sebastopol, amidst the vines, is the home of DRNK Winery.  DRNK is a family collaboration between Ryan and Katie Kunde and her parents, Dale and Nancy Dougherty.  Cleverly named, DRNK is a compilation of each family member’s first initial and so much more. 

Historically, the Sonoma Valley Kunde family has been making wine since the 1880’s.  As a young boy, Ryan scouted vineyard sights with his grandfather and learned his way around the cellar and bottling line with his father.  Often mentoring with notable winemakers, Ryan’s fascination of blending wine eventually led to advanced studies in Enology and Viticulture at UC Davis.  Fast forward to 2012, when Ryan, a fifth generation winemaker, ventured out on his own in search of new and unique vineyard sites using drone technology.

One of only four wine caves in the Russian River Valley, this spectacular 300′ long subterranean cave’s natural temperature is a constant 58 degrees year round with 85% average humidity.  Absolutely perfect for aging wine.  Designed to hold 500 barrels, there’s also several alcoves for private tastings and events. 

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Windsor’s Notre Vue Estate’s Unabashed Views Are Worth The Drive

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Always up for an adventure, I was curious about the seemingly bold name for a winery, Notre Vue, (translates to Our View), an off-the-beaten path winery situated a few miles east of the town of Windsor.   My directions were vague at best, so I proceeded up the lone dirt road, passing through the gates of the old Windsor Oaks vineyards, veering to the left, careening to the right, for what seemed a few miles, all the way to the end of the road.

All I can say is that the name Notre Vue is an understatement.  The expansive Notre Vue Estate sits high atop a ridge, surrounded by over 350 acres of wild preserved open space, with panoramic views stretching from the Russian River Valley all the way east to the Mayacama Mountains, with St. Helena as a backdrop.

Over 250 acres are planted to Bordeaux, Rhone and Italian varietals, allowing for small lot production. Notre Vue varietals include Dolcetto, Viognier, Chardonnay, Muscat, Sauvignon Blanc, Pinot Gris, Malbec, Mouvedre, Petite Verdot, Petit Syrah, Sangiovese, Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon, Zinfandel, Merlot and Grenache.  A second label, Balverne, produces a reserve Pinot Noir and Chardonnay, Rosé, Sauvignon Blanc and Cabernet Sauvignon.   [Read more…]

Cheers To Russian River Valley’s “Uneventful” 2018 Harvest!

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By far, harvest is my favorite time of year in any wine country.  The sweet smell of ripe grapes fill the air as they wait their turn on the vines to be picked.  Night picking is the norm in Sonoma County’s Russian River Valley as the cool late summer nights provide a natural refrigeration, delaying oxidation and spoilage before the grapes get into the winery for processing.

Driving around the vineyards between sundown and sunrise can be a surreal sight as the fields are ablaze with spotlights, providing the ideal backdrop for the night workers.   (Photo courtesy of Jordan Vineyard & Winery).  The deafening din of the tractors and heavy harvest machinery can be heard for miles as the grapes are quickly harvested. Within hours, the vines are stripped and the grapes are loaded into large plastic bins and hauled off to the winery’s crush pad.

Upon arrival, the grapes travel down a vibrating conveyor belt where they are hand-sorted.  Undesirable grapes or under ripened grapes are removed by the sorters.  In larger winery operations, the grapes may be laser optically sorted instead. Depending on the varietal and wine style, grapes may be placed in a de-stemmer machine which effectively removes the stems to avoid bitterness, or in some cases, the grapes are placed in separate bins, with the stems to add tannin, for whole cluster fermentation.

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