UNCORKED WINE TRAVELS

Musings Along The Wine Trails

Vin Santo Reigns In Chianti’s Medieval Hamlet of Castello di Volpaia

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On a recent trip to Tuscany, I had the good fortune to revisit the medieval hamlet of Castello di Volpaia, rising five miles atop the Tuscan hills near Radda in Chianti  The fortified borgo (village) dates back to the 11th century and is most well-known for it famous resident clockmaker and namesake, Lorenzo della Volpaia, and of course, its Vin Santo.

Vin Santo translates to “Holy Wine”, and is a type of Italian dessert wine.  One theory on the origin of  the “Holy Wine” is referenced in the historic use in the Catholic mass, where sweet wine was preferred.  Another claim dates back to the Renaissance era when wine merchants peddled the sweet nectar on the streets of Rome.

Interestingly, Vin Santo can be made sweet or bone dry, depending on how the wine is finished. Typically, Malvasia or Trebbiano grapes are used to craft a white Vin Santo and in Chianti, the flagship Sangiovese grape is used to make the red or rose Vin Santo.

Grapes destined for the dessert wine production are harvested in September or October and are hung to dry in the warm rafters or laid on straw mats in attics for several months, allowing the moisture to evaporate and the sugars to concentrate.  Sometimes these wines are also called “straw wines”.

The longer the wines are dried, the higher the residual sugar content, and the sweeter the wine. It is not uncommon to let the grapes dry naturally and hang in the rafters until March before crushing and fermenting the grapes.

Vin Santo is aged and stored in small oak barrels, for a minimum of 3 years and often aged up to 10 years.  The color of Vin Santo can range from pale to dark amber, even neon orange.

Vin Santo’s flavor profile has nutty or raisin notes with honey and cream attributes.  In Italy, Vin Santo is traditionally served with biscotti for dunking.

 

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Tuscany’s Top 10 Wine Trivia

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In many ways, Sangiovese is to Chianti as Cabernet Sauvignon is to Bordeaux. Both form the base of wines that blend beautifully with other varietals, yet alone, they share a distinctive elegance and complexity. To impress your fellow oenophiles at the next dinner party, read on:

  1. Tuscany has 9 DOCG appellations that date back to the Etruscans in the 8th century BC. Sangiovese, Tuscany’s most prominent grape, is derived from the Latin sanguis Jovis, which literally translates to the “blood of Jove”.   Sangiovese is the premier grape varietal in Italy, planted on over 247,000 acres with 14 separate and distinct clones. Sangiovese thrives in direct sunlight at altitudes of 500 to 1600 feet. The higher elevations increase the diurnal temperature variation, helping the grapes maintain their balance of sugars and acidity as well as their aromatic qualities. 3m26JPG
  1. The Chianti zone is the largest classified wine region and produces over eight million cases of wine each year. The region is split into two DOCGs – Chianti and Chianti Classico. The larger Chianti zone is further divided into eight DOC sub-zones and produces white, other Rosso reds and Vin Santo.
  1. To be considered a Chianti Classico, wines must be 75% to 100% Sangiovese and can contain up to 20% of international varietals such as Cabernet and Merlot. Chianti Classico covers approximately 100 square miles between Florence and Siena and includes the communes of Castellina, Gaiole, Greve and Radda and five other neighboring communes.   Chianti Classico is required to be aged for a minimum of three years.5mp30JPG
  1. All but one Tuscany DOCG is comprised of Sangiovese grapes.  Vernaccia di San Gimignano DOCG produces the only white grape called Vernaccia . Other white grapes planted in Tuscany are Trebbiano, Malvasia, Vermantino and Chardonnay and are frequently used in blending wines.
  1. Vin Santo, also known as “holy wine”, is made of Trebbiano which is harvested in late fall and air-dried on straw mats until the start of Holy Week before bottling. Vin Santo ages for 3 to 10 years in small barrels and is produced in small quantities. Vin Santo makes an excellent Italian dessert wine.

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Castello di Volpaia’s Romantic Lure Is Intoxicating

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Volpaia rises high into the clouds at 2500 feet near Radda in Chianti, Tuscany.
Volpaia rises high into the clouds at over 2000 feet above sea level near Radda in Chianti, Tuscany.

Right in the heart of Chianti, five steep miles atop the highest peak, lies Volpaia, touted as one of the most romantic villages in the heart of Tuscany.  Dating back to the 11th century, this medieval borgo (village) is one of the best preserved walled villages in Italy.

Medieval curved walls add charm to the little hilltop village.
Medieval curved walls add a charm to the little hilltop village.

As was customary in the middle ages, people were named for their trade or place of origin.  In the mid-1400’s, Lorenzo della Volpaia, a mathematician, architect and skilled clockmaker, adopted the town’s name, literally meaning Lorenzo from Volpaia (Lair of the Foxes).   Della Volpaia was even said to have consulted with Leonardo da Vinci (Leonardo from Vinci) on technical projects. One of Volpaia’s most exclaimed clock works is the clock in Palazzo Vecchio in centro Florence.

Escape to Volpaia for a stay at a medieval bed and breakfast stay.
Escape to Volpaia for a medieval bed and breakfast stay.

Today, Volpaia is owned by the Stianti Mascheroni family (Father Rafaello Stianti gifted the village and winery to his daughter Gionvanella as a wedding present in 1996).   Castello di Volpaia is renowned for its wonderful wines, traditional olive oils and aromatic vinegar. [Read more…]