UNCORKED WINE TRAVELS

Musings Along The Wine Trails

Panzanello Winery Is Panzano In Chianti’s Brightest Shining Star

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11pz5jpgHaving just returned from a whirlwind trip to Tuscany and looking through my 800+ photos, undoubtedly,  Panzano In Chianti is absolutely one of the most beautiful  places in Italy.  With a population of less than 1,200 people, the charming hilltop village of Panzano lies mid-way between Siena and Florence, right in the heart of Chianti Classico wine country.

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Anthony Bourdain, Rick Steeves and other travel writers often boast about Panzano’s famous resident butcher, Dario Cecchini  (read about Dario Cecchini on my blog)  But for Sangiovese lovers, Panzano is more about the legendary Chianti Classico wines.

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A scenic winding road outside the city center of Panzano leads to Panzanello Winery. Time seems to stand still as you pass the shimmering silver-green olive groves and the fruit-laden vineyards as you slowly turn down the long driveway to Panzanello Winery.

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Wine Tasting Along The Chianti Wine Trail

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Chianti Classico is an area steeped in rich history, dating back to the Etruscan times. Over the years, the Romans laid claim, followed by the ferocious medieval battles between Siena and Florence. Today, Chianti Classico is tranquil and undisturbed, yet vibrant, and is home to artisans and winemakers alike.

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In a region where vineyards are plentiful and cellars are centuries old, one needs a strategy before blazing the wine trail.   Unlike wine tasting in California, which is both casual and unpretentious for the most part, wine tasting in Chianti Classico is a bit more structured.

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The key to fun and eventful wine tasting is simple – take the time to plan your itinerary in advance. Care in planning ahead will save time in the long run and will enhance your wine tasting experience overall.

Keep in mind that the most memorable cellar tours encompass wine tasting along with food pairings.

A wine guide or sommelier will often guide the group tasting in the cellar and will offer sumptuous local food pairings such as bread and olive oil, prosciutto or salami and Pecorino Toscana cheese to compliment the featured wines.

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In Chianti, wine tastings are never rushed. The pours are more than generous and the conversation with the wine staff flows easily. Wine tasting fees are nominal and a purchase of a bottle of wine is certainly appreciated, but not expected.

To get the most out of your wine tasting experience, if possible, arm yourself before your wine trek with The Black Rooster Map, (Le Strade del Gallo Nero), the official wine road map. [Read more…]

Tuscany’s Top 10 Wine Trivia

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In many ways, Sangiovese is to Chianti as Cabernet Sauvignon is to Bordeaux. Both form the base of wines that blend beautifully with other varietals, yet alone, they share a distinctive elegance and complexity. To impress your fellow oenophiles at the next dinner party, read on:

  1. Tuscany has 9 DOCG appellations that date back to the Etruscans in the 8th century BC. Sangiovese, Tuscany’s most prominent grape, is derived from the Latin sanguis Jovis, which literally translates to the “blood of Jove”.   Sangiovese is the premier grape varietal in Italy, planted on over 247,000 acres with 14 separate and distinct clones. Sangiovese thrives in direct sunlight at altitudes of 500 to 1600 feet. The higher elevations increase the diurnal temperature variation, helping the grapes maintain their balance of sugars and acidity as well as their aromatic qualities. 3m26JPG
  1. The Chianti zone is the largest classified wine region and produces over eight million cases of wine each year. The region is split into two DOCGs – Chianti and Chianti Classico. The larger Chianti zone is further divided into eight DOC sub-zones and produces white, other Rosso reds and Vin Santo.
  1. To be considered a Chianti Classico, wines must be 75% to 100% Sangiovese and can contain up to 20% of international varietals such as Cabernet and Merlot. Chianti Classico covers approximately 100 square miles between Florence and Siena and includes the communes of Castellina, Gaiole, Greve and Radda and five other neighboring communes.   Chianti Classico is required to be aged for a minimum of three years.5mp30JPG
  1. All but one Tuscany DOCG is comprised of Sangiovese grapes.  Vernaccia di San Gimignano DOCG produces the only white grape called Vernaccia . Other white grapes planted in Tuscany are Trebbiano, Malvasia, Vermantino and Chardonnay and are frequently used in blending wines.
  1. Vin Santo, also known as “holy wine”, is made of Trebbiano which is harvested in late fall and air-dried on straw mats until the start of Holy Week before bottling. Vin Santo ages for 3 to 10 years in small barrels and is produced in small quantities. Vin Santo makes an excellent Italian dessert wine.

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Tuscany’s Vignamaggio Vineyards – Home of Mona Lisa

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Glorious Vignamaggio ~ Courtesy of Vignamaggio Vineyards

Vignamaggio Vineyards is steeped with fascinating history!  For starters, Monna Lisa was born in Vignamaggio, (a tiny town in northern Chianti) in the 14th century.  Leonardo da Vinci (Leonardo from Vinci) lived a few miles away.  When Leonardo painted the aristocratic daughter of Gheradini, the magnificent setting of the Vignamaggio was painted in the background.

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Leonardo Da Vinci’s Mona Lisa

I visited Vignamaggio Vineyards on my last day in Tuscany ~ the spring weather was anything but cooperative, rainy and blustery.

Bella Vignamaggio!
Bella Vignamaggio!

Vignamaggio (translates to May Vines), is nestled in the hills between Greve and Lamole, about 45 minutes from Firenze.  Idyllic winding roads up to the estate are flanked by olive trees and hardwoods.  The smell of burning wood was in the air.

Entry to Vignamaggio
Stately entry to Vignamaggio Vineyard and Wine Resort near Greve in Chiant

After trekking up the long driveway lined with hardwood trees to the top of the hill, I was warmly greeted by the charming Sandro Checcucci, my personal wine guide and host at Vignamaggio Vineyards.  The tasting room was warm and inviting. [Read more…]

Castello di Volpaia’s Romantic Lure Is Intoxicating

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Volpaia rises high into the clouds at 2500 feet near Radda in Chianti, Tuscany.
Volpaia rises high into the clouds at over 2000 feet above sea level near Radda in Chianti, Tuscany.

Right in the heart of Chianti, five steep miles atop the highest peak, lies Volpaia, touted as one of the most romantic villages in the heart of Tuscany.  Dating back to the 11th century, this medieval borgo (village) is one of the best preserved walled villages in Italy.

Medieval curved walls add charm to the little hilltop village.
Medieval curved walls add a charm to the little hilltop village.

As was customary in the middle ages, people were named for their trade or place of origin.  In the mid-1400’s, Lorenzo della Volpaia, a mathematician, architect and skilled clockmaker, adopted the town’s name, literally meaning Lorenzo from Volpaia (Lair of the Foxes).   Della Volpaia was even said to have consulted with Leonardo da Vinci (Leonardo from Vinci) on technical projects. One of Volpaia’s most exclaimed clock works is the clock in Palazzo Vecchio in centro Florence.

Escape to Volpaia for a stay at a medieval bed and breakfast stay.
Escape to Volpaia for a medieval bed and breakfast stay.

Today, Volpaia is owned by the Stianti Mascheroni family (Father Rafaello Stianti gifted the village and winery to his daughter Gionvanella as a wedding present in 1996).   Castello di Volpaia is renowned for its wonderful wines, traditional olive oils and aromatic vinegar. [Read more…]