UNCORKED WINE TRAVELS

Musings Along The Wine Trails

Kistler Vineyards Is A Wondrous Showcase For Chardonnay Lovers!

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Kistler Vineyards‘ stately old farmhouse, aka the Trenton Roadhouse, sits high above the winding Trenton-Healdsburg Road in sleepy Forestville, just north of Sebastopol in Russian River Valley.  Unless you’re intently looking for the sign, it’s easy to miss the hidden gated entrance, thinking it is just another beautiful historic home nestled in the vineyards. With enough planning and a little good fortune, you may be able to reserve a seated wine tasting invitation and slip back in time as you gaze over the vineyards from a rocking chair on the old covered porch.

Founded in 1978 by Steve Kistler, winemaker and vineyard manager, the small family owned winery is now producing upwards of 35,000 cases of handcrafted Burgundian-style Chardonnay and Pinot Noir.  As is traditional in Burgundy, France, Kistler Vineyards produces all of the wines using native yeasts.  There are 10 single vineyard Chardonnays, derived from the Wente clone.   The Chardonnay is unfined and unfiltered and gracefully aged sur lie in French oak barrels for 11-18 months before bottling.  The Pinot Noir, too, is a single vineyard designate and is also unfined and unfiltered.  The unctuous free run juice is barrel aged in French oak from 14 to 18 months before bottling.

Kistler‘s Trenton Roadhouse property is absolutely stunning from any vantage point.  Hosted tastings are either held in the glass-walled sun porch room overlooking the vineyards in the off-season or held down below in the vintage barn and surrounding patios in the warmer months.  As luck would have it, in the middle of the fall harvest, right before a huge rain storm,  I had the entire wine tasting experience all to myself, thanks to my wine friend and hostess, Ashley Bender.   [Read more…]

Top Paso Robles Wine Trail Picks

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When thinking of weekend wine destinations, Paso Robles is often overlooked.  Once a sleepy agricultural enclave, Paso Robles now touts 11 separate AVA’s (American Viticulture Areas) and more than 200 wineries.  Roughly three times larger than Napa Valley AVA, the soils are as diverse and the grape varietals produced here range from Burgundian Pinot Noir to Old Vine Zinfandel.  Vineyard elevations are between 700 feet to over 2,400 feet and are greatly influenced by the Templeton Wind Gap, which brings cooling ocean breezes to some of the most prized wine estates.

A great place to start your wine trek is at Calcareous Vineyards  off Peachy Canyon in the west hills of Paso Robles.  Perched high atop a limestone ridge, the panoramic views from the tasting room are absolutely stunning, as are the wines.

Burgundy, Rhone and Bordeaux grape varietals are sourced from three estate vineyards resulting in distinctive small lot handcrafted wines.  Still family-owned, this gem of a winery is a must visit.  Play a game of bocce ball or bring a picnic lunch and enjoy the never-ending vistas from Calcareous Vineyards.

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Especial Wine Stops in Historic Alexander Valley ~ Sonoma Wine Country

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It’s mind-boggling to imagine what the ex-fur trapper Cyrus Alexander might have seen when he managed a stock cattle ranch operation on Rancho Sotoyome in the 1840’s.  The pristine 48,000 acres, part of a Mexican Land Grant, spanned as far as the eye could see, extending to the Russian River and through the present day town of Healdsburg.  Years later, the valley would later be named in honor of Alexander  who reportedly said, “it was the best and brightest spot in the world.”   Cyrus Alexander Bio

To the casual wine day-tripper, time appears to have stood still in the sleepy remote valley.  The winding country roads meander aimlessly, dotted with small farms and vineyards at every turn.

A great way to experience the back roads of Alexander Valley is from The Wine Carriage, a half day guided horse carriage ride through the vineyards.  The Wine Carriage  provides an up close and personal view literally between the vines starting at Alexander Valley Winery and ending with the estate’s wine caves.   Owner and tour guide extraordinaire, Bret LeRolland, is an animated story-teller, bringing the colorful history of Alexander Valley alive.  [Read more…]

Top Picks To Wine Down In Dry Creek Valley

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Dry Creek Valley AVA is at the northernmost tip of the North Sonoma County Wine Country, just outside the  trendy town of Healdsburg.  A mere 16 miles long and 2 miles wide, Dry Creek Valley is flanked by Dry Creek, a tributary of the Russian River and the Sonoma Dam.  In the distance beyond the Sonoma Dam is the coveted Rockpile AVA, perched 800 feet above sea level, home to only 180 acres of  Zinfandel, albeit no tasting rooms.

Panoramic views can be enjoyed from the expansive decks at Sbragia Family Winery.  Guests are welcome to bring a picnic lunch, or to sample savory cheese plates and light fare prepared by the resident chef designed to pair with the estate Chardonnay, Merlot, Zinfandel and Cabernet Sauvignon.  Or, treat yourself to the guided comparison tasting inside the library room, vetting the Dry Creek Valley Cabernet Sauvignon to their Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon vineyard holdings from Mt. Veeder, Howell Mountain and Yountville.                                                               

Sbragia Family Vineyards     

Ridge Vineyards Lytton Springs is not to be missed.   The old vine Zinfandel vineyard dates back 115 years and is inter-planted with Petite Sirah, Carignane, a small amount of Mataro (Mourvèdre), and Grenache.  The “field blend” varietals are fermented separately to preserve the individual character of the grapes, then artfully joined for the finished blend.

The views from Ridge Vineyards are some of the best in the valley.  Experience the Chardonnay, Merlot, Carignane, Petite Sirah, Cabernet Sauvignon, and of course, the Old Vine Zinfandel.

The original Ridge Vineyards Montebello (Santa Cruz Mountains) founded in 1885, is most famous today for their 1971 Ridge Vineyards Montebello Cabernet Sauvignon, which outscored the French wines at the highly touted 1976 Judgment of Paris Wine Tasting competition.

Ridge Vineyards ~ Lytton Springs

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Russian River Valley’s Martinelli Winery Dates Back To 1890’s

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Martinelli Winery is impossible to miss on River Road in Sonoma’s Russian River Valley wine country.  The massive brick-red hop barn facade is legendary in these parts.  Tuscan transplants Giuseppe and Luisa Martinelli cultivated grapes in 1898 on a steep 60 degree slope, now known as Jackass Hill.  The non-terraced steep slope was originally planted to Zinfandel and Muscat Alexandria and surrounding fields were planted to Gravenstein and Golden Delicious apples, cherries, pears, prunes, hops, berries, walnuts, potatoes and green beans.  The centurion vineyard, Jackass Hill, took its name when family told Martinelli that “only a jackass would farm a hill that steep”.  Today, that very vineyard produces some of the finest old vine Zinfandel in the valley.

Descendants of the Martinelli family, Lee Sr. and his sons now farm the vineyards and his daughters manage the office and marketing for the winery.   The turn of the century tasting room also serves as a mini museum with many artifacts, an old wine press and sepia wall photos of the Martinelli family.

Martinelli‘s vineyards are strategically positioned in the Russian River Valley and along the Sonoma Coast in the Fort Ross/Seaview area.  While the best grapes are retained for the estate wines, over 90% of the grapes are sold to other Sonoma County wineries.

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