Calling all Oenophiles….
One of my favorite wine books about the history of Northern Sonoma Wine Country, A Wine Journey Along The Russian River, takes readers on a slow and easy trek through Mendocino County, Alexander Valley, Dry Creek and finally through the storied Russian River Valley. Author Steve Heimoff, previous West Coast Editor of Wine Enthusiast Magazine artfully details the beginning of the region’s viticulture experimentation and influential pioneer wine makers of the day. Filled with first hand encounters and a bird’s eye view from the riverbanks to the vineyards above, this historical read will captivate the best of the wine geeks.
Having spent a lot of time in this wine region, I found the book to be well-researched and have read it cover-to-cover a few times, each time gleaming a deeper insight. Interestingly, there are a few geological theories about the actual rock formation of the Russian River itself, but overall the story line focuses on the key players in the burgeoning wine industry in the 1970’s.
The Russian River, named after the Fort Ross Russian settlers in the early 19th century, flows south, originating east of Willits in Mendocino County, before making a sharp turn to the west near Healdsburg, then continues through Guerneville before meeting the Pacific Ocean. While the Russian River plays an important role in moderating temperatures for grape growing in the valley, it is also an important ecological habitat for warm and cold water fish migration and spawning and boasts sandy beaches for recreation. Heimoff delights readers with stories and interviews from the area’s first growers and vintners in this superb read!
Just as enchanting as the winery’s namesake, is the bucolic setting of Ted and Heidi Lemon’s Littorai Wines nestled in the far reaches between Sebastopol and Freestone. Ted’s love of Burgundian-style wines began almost 40 years ago when he apprenticed at several famous Old World wine estates in France and studied enology at the Université de Bourgogne. As an accomplished young winemaker, he was the first American hired to manage Domaine Guy Roulot in Mersault, France. Fast forward to today, where Littorai’s single vineyard wines are internationally distributed in 14 countries and grace the wine lists of top restaurants nationwide.
This 30-acre farm is modeled on the 1920’s Philosopher/Scientist Rudolf Steiner’s vision of an integrated farm, combining a holistic, biodynamic approach to farming. Over half of the property is dedicated as open rangeland for the resident grazing cows, sheep and chickens. Organic legumes, edible flowers and cereals are cultivated and composted, and eventually formulated into natural tea sprays for the vines. Bees and insects are welcomed as no pesticides or fertilizers are used at Littorai.
On three acres, The Pivot Vineyard Pinot Noir, is the estate’s only vineyard. The remaining acreage is cloaked in Redwood trees and dotted with meandering streams and wildlife. Grapes for Chardonnay and other single vineyard Pinot Noir are sourced from the coastal mountains of Sonoma and Mendocino Counties, hence the name Littorai.
What makes a Littorai Pinot Noir from one coast different from the other? In short, a Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir tends to have a more tannic structure, with spice tones (peppers, savory, sage, marjoram) while the Russian River Valley Pinot Noir is associated with lush fruit, blackberry, raspberry and plum. Yet, the Anderson Valley Pinot Noir combines the best of the tannins from the Sonoma Coast and the darker fruits of the Russian River Valley.
Keeping with the “green building” theme, Littorai’s winery is constructed of hay bale walls, which provide consistent insulation and temperature control in the cellar. Solar panels minimize the electric costs, and all excess water used in the winemaking process is recycled back into the vineyard. The winery is also designed for wine movement via gravity flow, to avoid the use of pumps.
Vineyard tours and tastings are by appointment only, and well worth the inside look at how biodynamic farming produces some of the finest Chardonnay and Pinot Noir in Russian River Valley. 
