Musings Along The Wine Trails
I have to admit, Arroyo Grande in the Central Coast near San Luis Obispo, produces some mighty fine Pinot Noir and Chardonnay. The close proximity of the ocean brings the fog inland enough to cool the vines making it an ideal climate for these two varietals.
The Talley family bought the fertile Arroyo Grande farmland in 1974, which included the El Rincon Adobe pictured above. The adobe was built by Ramon Branch, one of the original settlers in the valley in the 1860’s. [Read more…]
My draw to the tiny hamlet of Panzano was two-fold…. one was to meet Dario Cecchini, the touted celebrity butcher featured on Anthony Bourdain’s No Reservations show, and revered by travel guru Rick Steves. And, also to explore the many boutique wineries hidden off the SR222, the Chianti Wine Trail. As a point of reference, Panzano lies a few kilometers south of Greve, about 45 minutes from Firenze (Florence).
I visited over Pasqua (Easter) weekend and the weather was cool and misty, with scattered showers. Not ideal, but with umbrella in hand, I made the best of it. I enjoyed sitting in the village bakery with a cappuccino in hand, watching the local women scurry around town preparing for the big Pasqua family dinner. Shop windows were lavishly decorated with giant chocolate eggs with hidden toys inside, all festively wrapped with pastel ribbons. [Read more…]
Panzano in Chianti is probably best known for its acclaimed and boisterous butcher, Dario Cecchini. Travel writer Rick Steeves, television foodie Anthony Bourdain and countless U-Tube videos have made Dario Cecchini and his Antica Macelleria Cecchini into somewhat of a legend in the sleepy hamlet of Panzano.
I had to see it for myself…
You’ll know you’re in the right place when you see locals and tourists alike jamming the doorway of the tiny machelleria (butcher shop) and hear the pounding bass of AC/DC rocking through the streets! It’s quite a party — all the time! [Read more…]
Right in the heart of Chianti, five steep miles atop the highest peak, lies Volpaia, touted as one of the most romantic villages in the heart of Tuscany. Dating back to the 11th century, this medieval borgo (village) is one of the best preserved walled villages in Italy.
As was customary in the middle ages, people were named for their trade or place of origin. In the mid-1400’s, Lorenzo della Volpaia, a mathematician, architect and skilled clockmaker, adopted the town’s name, literally meaning Lorenzo from Volpaia (Lair of the Foxes). Della Volpaia was even said to have consulted with Leonardo da Vinci (Leonardo from Vinci) on technical projects. One of Volpaia’s most exclaimed clock works is the clock in Palazzo Vecchio in centro Florence.
Today, Volpaia is owned by the Stianti Mascheroni family (Father Rafaello Stianti gifted the village and winery to his daughter Gionvanella as a wedding present in 1996). Castello di Volpaia is renowned for its wonderful wines, traditional olive oils and aromatic vinegar. [Read more…]
One of the highlights of my Tuscany travels was visiting the medieval borgo of Montalcino. Steeped in history that dates back to the Etruscan times, this hilltop village holds a lot of charm and is best known nowadays for the Brunello di Montalcino wine.
Only 5,300 people live in Montalcino, which sprawls from the centro district along the valley floor below Monte Amiata, a dormant volcano (last eruption was over 300,000 years ago). Montalcino is a very picturesque area with vineyards lining the country roads and Abbadia di S’Antimo gracing the southern wine trail.
In centro Montalcino, enotecas (wine stores) are plentiful, all pouring the heavenly juice of Bacchus ~ aka Brunello di Montalcino. So little time, and so many Brunellos! [Read more…]