UNCORKED WINE TRAVELS

Musings Along The Wine Trails

Kistler Vineyards Is A Wondrous Showcase For Chardonnay Lovers!

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Kistler Vineyards‘ stately old farmhouse, aka the Trenton Roadhouse, sits high above the winding Trenton-Healdsburg Road in sleepy Forestville, just north of Sebastopol in Russian River Valley.  Unless you’re intently looking for the sign, it’s easy to miss the hidden gated entrance, thinking it is just another beautiful historic home nestled in the vineyards. With enough planning and a little good fortune, you may be able to reserve a seated wine tasting invitation and slip back in time as you gaze over the vineyards from a rocking chair on the old covered porch.

Founded in 1978 by Steve Kistler, winemaker and vineyard manager, the small family owned winery is now producing upwards of 35,000 cases of handcrafted Burgundian-style Chardonnay and Pinot Noir.  As is traditional in Burgundy, France, Kistler Vineyards produces all of the wines using native yeasts.  There are 10 single vineyard Chardonnays, derived from the Wente clone.   The Chardonnay is unfined and unfiltered and gracefully aged sur lie in French oak barrels for 11-18 months before bottling.  The Pinot Noir, too, is a single vineyard designate and is also unfined and unfiltered.  The unctuous free run juice is barrel aged in French oak from 14 to 18 months before bottling.

Kistler‘s Trenton Roadhouse property is absolutely stunning from any vantage point.  Hosted tastings are either held in the glass-walled sun porch room overlooking the vineyards in the off-season or held down below in the vintage barn and surrounding patios in the warmer months.  As luck would have it, in the middle of the fall harvest, right before a huge rain storm,  I had the entire wine tasting experience all to myself, thanks to my wine friend and hostess, Ashley Bender.   [Read more…]

2017 Russian River Valley Grape Harvest Is One For The Record Books

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“Wine is sunlight, held together by water.”  Galileo Galilei

My yearly tradition, is to travel to a different wine region to observe the grape harvest.  Last year I was fortunate to be in Tuscany for la vendemmia, and this year I chose my all-time favorite Russian River Valley in Northern Sonoma County to observe the harvest.  There’s something magical about harvest time.  There’s a sweetness in the air of the grapes hanging on the vines and a musical trill of the grape press as it hums along.   It’s a time of high energy, camaraderie, bustle and communion with nature in the vineyards, but it can also mean anxiety, sleepless nights, anticipation, relief and ultimately, jubilation for the wine maker.

Depending on who you talked to, wine makers had various opinions as to the projected quality and yield of the 2017 grape harvest.  Wild weather conditions this year brought relief from the severe drought with heavy winter rains, which submerged vineyards in low-lying areas, an early Spring bud break and late Summer temperature heat spikes which ripened the grapes sooner than usual.  And then there was predicted rain during harvest, again, unusual.   All this, and more, make for interesting wine fodder around harvest time.

Harvest Moon Winery owner and wine maker extraordinaire, Randy Pitts, greeted me with a big smile and a paper cup of his freshly pressed Pinot Noir.  Optimistic as always, Randy was pleased with the harvest so far, although there were still grapes to be hand-picked in nearby vineyards and much work to be done.

Randy explained that night harvesting was commonplace in Russian River Valley.  Harvesting at night when the temperatures are cooler, helps to maintain the acidity in the grapes, which in turn, delays oxidation and spoilage before the grapes get into the winery for processing.

Indeed, it truly was  an eerie sight to see the dim sea of headlamps and blazing tractor lights dotting the vineyards in the late night  and wee morning hours.

There’s a lot that goes on behind the scenes at harvest time, and getting the grapes to the winery production pad is only the first step.  Here’s to a great 2017 harvest and amazing future releases!  www.harvestmoonwinery.com 

Top Paso Robles Wine Trail Picks

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When thinking of weekend wine destinations, Paso Robles is often overlooked.  Once a sleepy agricultural enclave, Paso Robles now touts 11 separate AVA’s (American Viticulture Areas) and more than 200 wineries.  Roughly three times larger than Napa Valley AVA, the soils are as diverse and the grape varietals produced here range from Burgundian Pinot Noir to Old Vine Zinfandel.  Vineyard elevations are between 700 feet to over 2,400 feet and are greatly influenced by the Templeton Wind Gap, which brings cooling ocean breezes to some of the most prized wine estates.

A great place to start your wine trek is at Calcareous Vineyards  off Peachy Canyon in the west hills of Paso Robles.  Perched high atop a limestone ridge, the panoramic views from the tasting room are absolutely stunning, as are the wines.

Burgundy, Rhone and Bordeaux grape varietals are sourced from three estate vineyards resulting in distinctive small lot handcrafted wines.  Still family-owned, this gem of a winery is a must visit.  Play a game of bocce ball or bring a picnic lunch and enjoy the never-ending vistas from Calcareous Vineyards.

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Especial Wine Stops in Historic Alexander Valley ~ Sonoma Wine Country

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It’s mind-boggling to imagine what the ex-fur trapper Cyrus Alexander might have seen when he managed a stock cattle ranch operation on Rancho Sotoyome in the 1840’s.  The pristine 48,000 acres, part of a Mexican Land Grant, spanned as far as the eye could see, extending to the Russian River and through the present day town of Healdsburg.  Years later, the valley would later be named in honor of Alexander  who reportedly said, “it was the best and brightest spot in the world.”   Cyrus Alexander Bio

To the casual wine day-tripper, time appears to have stood still in the sleepy remote valley.  The winding country roads meander aimlessly, dotted with small farms and vineyards at every turn.

A great way to experience the back roads of Alexander Valley is from The Wine Carriage, a half day guided horse carriage ride through the vineyards.  The Wine Carriage  provides an up close and personal view literally between the vines starting at Alexander Valley Winery and ending with the estate’s wine caves.   Owner and tour guide extraordinaire, Bret LeRolland, is an animated story-teller, bringing the colorful history of Alexander Valley alive.  [Read more…]

Top Picks To Wine Down In Dry Creek Valley

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Dry Creek Valley AVA is at the northernmost tip of the North Sonoma County Wine Country, just outside the  trendy town of Healdsburg.  A mere 16 miles long and 2 miles wide, Dry Creek Valley is flanked by Dry Creek, a tributary of the Russian River and the Sonoma Dam.  In the distance beyond the Sonoma Dam is the coveted Rockpile AVA, perched 800 feet above sea level, home to only 180 acres of  Zinfandel, albeit no tasting rooms.

Panoramic views can be enjoyed from the expansive decks at Sbragia Family Winery.  Guests are welcome to bring a picnic lunch, or to sample savory cheese plates and light fare prepared by the resident chef designed to pair with the estate Chardonnay, Merlot, Zinfandel and Cabernet Sauvignon.  Or, treat yourself to the guided comparison tasting inside the library room, vetting the Dry Creek Valley Cabernet Sauvignon to their Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon vineyard holdings from Mt. Veeder, Howell Mountain and Yountville.                                                               

Sbragia Family Vineyards     

Ridge Vineyards Lytton Springs is not to be missed.   The old vine Zinfandel vineyard dates back 115 years and is inter-planted with Petite Sirah, Carignane, a small amount of Mataro (Mourvèdre), and Grenache.  The “field blend” varietals are fermented separately to preserve the individual character of the grapes, then artfully joined for the finished blend.

The views from Ridge Vineyards are some of the best in the valley.  Experience the Chardonnay, Merlot, Carignane, Petite Sirah, Cabernet Sauvignon, and of course, the Old Vine Zinfandel.

The original Ridge Vineyards Montebello (Santa Cruz Mountains) founded in 1885, is most famous today for their 1971 Ridge Vineyards Montebello Cabernet Sauvignon, which outscored the French wines at the highly touted 1976 Judgment of Paris Wine Tasting competition.

Ridge Vineyards ~ Lytton Springs

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